Silk Road Central Asia Uzbekistan

9000 kilometers of Central Asia (Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, Uzbekistan and Tajikistan)
Never travel planning did not undergo as many changes as this time. The original idea was to visit to Afghanistan – a white spot on the world tourist map. I firmly examined a series of books about the history of the country (particularly recommend — Stephen Tanner, “Afghanistan – a military history from Alexander the Great to the Fall of Taliban”) And spent many hours on the internet (I recommend the works of the famous traveler Anton Krotov site AVP not less useful notes Sergei Zharov regards to visit Afghanistan), I decided that my hour had come.
How does it not seem strange, especially, I felt no fear, though perfectly aware of the fact that this country is not an example of stability and security. Anyone who knows at least in general terms the history of Afghanistan, and having an idea of what a state of anarchy in the East understands that travelers rave reviews in no case should not be taken as a direct guide to action.

The current president, Hamid Karzai, has no authority outside of Kabul and in addition, his death wish, too many forces, ranging from long pressed the Taliban and ending with field commanders did not agree that the lion’s share of humanitarian aid goes not to them. It is easy to imagine what will happen to the lone tourist in a situation where the apparent calm in a moment disturbed volleys Grad, street fighting and blocking the Afghan border by all neighboring states. Greater success can be considered the option of you do not suspect that you are an American spy, or vice versa – not quite dead a foreign mercenary of al-Qaida.

But if you think that the above arguments have convinced me that going to Afghanistan in no case be – you’re wrong. The real reason for the refusal of visiting the country served as a trivial matter of obtaining a visa. Due to lack of time, I could not get a visa in Moscow, and I bear such a possibility – unlikely I managed to get an invitation, as required by the Afghan Embassy. There remained the option of obtaining a visa is already on the road, in one of their offices in Tashkent and Dushanbe. This maintains the option of a waiver and got there. In such a case should have included “sewage maneuver” – namely, instant rerouting and replacement of Afghanistan’s journey to the neighboring republics of Central Asia – Uzbekistan and Tajikistan.

So, the more I delved into the development of replacement options, the more into the background actually Afghanistan. At the final stage developed into more or less suitable plan, namely, visiting almost all Central Asian capitals (Bishkek, Almaty, Tashkent, Dushanbe) and a small hook in the direction of Bukhara and Samarkand.

Plan your trip

First of all, to save money, decided not to use international trains. It is known that at the time of crossing the border, your train falls into the category of international and for every kilometer you pay more. Example: train Moscow-Kaliningrad should be in Vilnius. This ticket to Vilnius is one and a half times more than before the end station. This is understandable – to Kaliningrad you pay for a ticket inside Russia’s tariff, and to Vilnius International. Another example – a direct train from Moscow (options – Ekaterinburg, Novosibirsk) in Tashkent costs about $ 100 in one direction. But if you buy a ticket to the border and beyond, already on the other side to the final point, the road is cheaper by 30-35%. An interesting situation exists in the Kazakh city of Petropavlovsk. Transiting through followed by dozens of Russian conventional trains for two or three hours crossing this piece of Kazakhstan and continue on the path already on the territory of Russia. If you drive it in Petropavlovsk, the more advantageous to buy a ticket to the next station after Isilkul Russia (Omsk region), and actually go in Petropavlovsk. The savings amount to more than one third of the cost of the ticket. But the main thing! Petropavlovsk – this is the only city in Kazakhstan, where schedules are listed on Moscow time. This is somewhat confusing, because all the other trains in Kazakhstan, followed by local time (the difference with the Moscow 2-3 hours).

The next point – the timing and search for rail timetables. Direct trains are not necessarily the fastest. For trips to Central Asia this is taken seriously. In some situations, you may find yourself on a train, whose average speed will be the strength of 30 kilometers per hour. Moreover, in such republics as Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan inner rail is almost not developed and there are only a few trains per week, linking their capitals, Moscow and a couple of other Russian cities. But to get the train to Tajikistan in general is almost unreal. The fact is that in extremely difficult mountainous terrain of this country, the railways there have not developed even in Soviet times. Now disappeared, even the little that had been previously. Add to this the fact that the road from Tajikistan to the outside world passes through the territory of Uzbekistan, Turkmenistan and Kazakhstan. Relations between these states can not be called particularly friendly. Theoretically, there are only two trains linking Tajikistan with the outside world: Dushanbe-Astrakhan and the Dushanbe-Khujand. In the first case it comes to trains once a week through the above three states and reaching a very long time. In the second case, the train once a week, making a detour from Dushanbe through the territory of Uzbekistan and the Tajik arrives in Khujand in 20 (!) Hours of travel without a single stop on the road, covering it with more than 1000 kilometers. Note that the distance between these cities along the highway, is only 350 kilometers. There is something to think about – and if I need a train?

And finally – the issue of entry formalities and registration. Most importantly – the citizens of the CIS countries are entitled to visa-free entry to Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, Uzbekistan and Tajikistan. Kyrgyzstan differs even more liberalism and for $ 25-30 allows visa at the border as citizens of the EU, the U.S. and Israel. When the Russians then went to the CIS with ordinary passports, but now – only on the passport, where you will put the press. But Turkmenistan is ruled by potentates Turkmenbashi long been out of the CIS and completely closed from the world. There will need a visa and get it extremely difficult.

With regard to the bureaucracy. Post-communist Asian bureaucracy operates in the image of the pre-existing Soviet system of total control. As in Russia, there is a system propisok, registration of aliens and as a result – many officials who profit from it. Man’s journey to get the local police, but how often and insolent – a question for each individual. In principle, if you stay overnight in hotels, then you are automatically registered. The main thing – always ask for a receipt showing that you lived in a hotel. On each day of stay, you must have a receipt from the hotel. Keep your tickets for trains and buses – all this may be needed.

Left open the question of border crossings between the states of Central Asia, their location, time and rules for border crossings. Such information is completely absent in reference literature and the Internet. As a result, I decided to focus on the main roads linking the countries of the region, suggesting that followed them, I can get to a neighboring state. On the other hand, in 2003, I have not missed from Slovakia to Hungary due to the fact that the one taken separately move was intended solely for the citizens of Slovakia and Hungary. Then I was lucky – the international crossing located a few kilometers away and I reached him on foot. It would be very unpleasant if I had to get to the desired transition of a hundred or so kilometers, so even at night, with the possible lack of transport. So, in the way!
Ekaterinburg – Petropavlovsk – Bishkek

… Already familiar from last year’s trip to Kazakhstan, the train “Sverdlovsk-Bishkek”. The past year proved to be the carrier of this people and goods fatal. With all the responsibility I give this train first place in the ranking of the most horrific train world. At least one of those countries, where I visited – and I must say, many of these countries. Most of the passengers – small traders from the southern republics, and all of them – such as petty smugglers. Plating lounges (the term “bed” to these flat-applicable) isolated and hung in all directions, baring his teeth with rusty screws. In tatters tore ventilation, while its massive metal grilles dangerous twitch over the heads of passengers, promising just about to fall. There was smashed everything absolutely everything. Smashed cars and do it methodically customs, of times in times hoarded seeking “treasures” in the form of several cartons of cigarettes, the party of cheap consumer goods, a bag of fake cosmetics addressed to provincial Russia divam.

Following the advice from the Internet to purchase tickets to the meaninglessness of the train, sit in the car so the conductor threw something like “contract”. No sooner had the train moved, as a conductor is already here. Contract worth more than money – they decided on $ 20 to Bisheka. For comparison, a ticket, even in berth ticket is worth twice as much. On the other hand, it is worth keeping in mind that such raslade you absolutely no rights and comfort of your trip will depend entirely on the integrity of conductors. Be assured that if the road will be someone ready to pay more, but the car will be full – you have to choose between a trip to the luggage rack and an additional charge beyond that already paid.

A few hours conductors, Kirghiz, desperately banging hammers, lead cars in the slightest something usable. Strengthening the paneling on my deck chairs, they benefited from hefty curved nails. Sheathing was nailed perfectly still, but, unfortunate nails, piercing through mattress, came top. I had to bend sideways. In the next compartment drops something heavy and then are heard screams and select, verbal Russian obscenities mixed with Kyrgyz adjectives. The conductor got a hammer on your finger – this restoration work stopped – the time for siesta.

At night the border with Kazakhstan. At the station, Petropavlovsk, is completely marasmic procedure passport control. Passengers trains running rush in the station building, where, after the chaotic ravings on the floors, finally, find room, in which the immigration issue cards. Then these cards are filled quickly, and finally the entire crowd rushes to the restaurant car of his train, where upon presentation of completed cards you slap cherished entry stamp. I draw your attention to the fact that it is not a top three-five walkers and not even a hundred. We are talking about six or seven hundred (!) Passengers of our train, plus other passenger trains in Kazakhstan. As a result, thousands of people rushing to the station in search of cards, toilets, restaurant cars with cherished border guards and so on. In the narrow corridors of the Petropavlovsk station, it is important not to yawn – another crowd easily sshibet you down and vtopchet in the dusty land of Kazakhstan. I must say that not all passengers are aware that they should immediately flee to the station. Someone is asleep (time – half of the third night), someone sits at a loss to the beds, looking anxiously at what is happening. Someone (eg the elderly) are simply unable to escape.

Someone might say, well, those fools Kazakhs! What they allegedly can not organize a normal passport control. And I say – nothing like this and explain why. So, let’s say that you sweetly slept border. The train has long immersed himself in the steppes of Kazakhstan. Nobody checked your passport and you “impunity” have entered the country. And then, somewhere under the Kokshetau, there are policemen in the car and begin to check the availability of entry stamps and immigration cards. And there you suck. But not so bad, smile – you’re in the East, or elsewhere? At your choice Police fined for illegal entry into their country, or issue the deportation of … country of destination. In any event communication with the police will cost you a certain amount of 5 to 50 dollars, depending on your eloquence and personal charm. Then you continue on the path, it is not important in what capacity – deportee, or penalized. The paper deportation replace your immigration card, exactly as the certificate of payment of fine. Of course, that the amounts specified certificate and the amount paid by you in fact can not match.

Now morality cleared?

During the day we pass kazahstansuyu new capital – Astana. Here I was in the past year, and the story of that trip can be read here. The next night, we pass Lake Balkhash in the late morning and arrive at the station Chu, the center of the infamous Chui region. – An important junction in southern Kazakhstan and there intersect the routes of all trains coming from Alma-Ata and Bishkek in Russia. It is the most suitable one hit in Kyrgyz, Bishkek, to which only 130km on the highway, in contrast to 10 (!) Hours of travel on the train that circles the mountain ridge.

For a company with my new friends – Kyrgyzstan from the Osh region, we leave the train and literally ran to the taxi rushing. Campus Chu known as one of the most Mentovskie seats Kazakhstan and very few people can get away without being robbed and humiliated. Dozens of cops in a very high rank (of major or above!) Scour the station in search of victims. This work does not rely on a simple non-commissioned officers – it’s about too much money.

… That’s caught the lanky guy with a huge Baul – the search is in the middle of the platform. A cop rudely throws things on the tarmac, wielding both his hands and feet …

… Stopped the whole family – the head of the family gives ments thousand-bill and the way is open – they are not searched …

We are lucky – have time to escape from the hell Chu and literally jump into a waiting taxi. Not on account of banal Mentovskie exaction of $ 200 tenge ($ 1.5) for the departure from the city. GAI boldly looks into the car, he shoved bill and the one grinning, going to catch the next car.

The border with Kyrgyzstan cross through the checkpoint Kordai / Ak-Jol. Quickly and without problems. Even my experienced companions surprised to be the same what luck! Do not even have to pay relegated. On the Kyrgyz side inspection quite formal – there are no computers, and your passport just watch it and return back. Peace be with you, Kyrgyzstan!

Bishkek

Immediately after the border, begins a strange, dusty village, inhabited mainly by Russian attendants trading in strawberries and cherries in the banks. Fugitive minibus and taxi from Kazakhstan, having passed through the said town, arriving at the chaotic bazaar on the outskirts of Bishkek, where to be found minibus to the center. Here you can also change some money, but gently – with a nice shorthand course.

On the advice of fellow travelers, I stayed in a small hotel in the heart of the city, three minutes from the Kyrgyz parliament, the very massive building, which at one time conquered people and escaped from the ex-president Askar Akayev. Non spartan, but the Central Asian standards – quite good and most importantly – with hot water. Pleases the absence of price discrimination between local and visiting – Rates the same for all – 300 soms ($ 7). Bargain, I am somewhat knocked the price. Later, walking through the city, I found the hotel and for $ 4-5, but in a much neglected and quite distant from the center. If the question is saving a few dollars will be vital for you – look for a cheaper alternative in the vicinity of the railway station. In the central post (opposite the Central Department Store), there is the Internet, telephones and telegraph.

Bishkek – a small provincial town, which consists of 4-5 storey residential houses and administrative center, consisting of a dozen government buildings. Many parks, alleys, monuments to various Kyrgyz poets and scholars. Directly above the town rise the great mountains of the Pamirs to the gorgeous snow-capped peaks. Mountains are visible from any part of the city and very impressive. In the city there is no special attractions, but in general, Bishkek produces enough enjoyable, relaxing and then it is quite possible to spend a day or two on the way to Issyk-Kul. Arrange a holiday belly – prices touching its availability. The following quote average prices for various items and services:
-A good lunch in a cafe in the center (Lagman, manti, bread, salad and tea) – 120 soms ($ 2.5)
Cherry-bazaar / store (kg) – 15 KGS / 30 KGS ($ 0.35 / $ 0.70)
-Travel by shuttle bus around the city – 5 som ($ 0.12)
-Internet, one hour – 30 soms ($ 0.75)

The next day, according to plan I expect to Alma-Ata. Passing day and night I dedicated the city, and in the morning, how to rest and bring myself in order after two days of road, left the hotel and went to the bus station.

Almaty

Theoretically, Bishkek and Almaty (220 km) are connected by rail, buses and even airplanes. But in practice, you have a choice between a minibus and aircraft. In the first case it is a very comfortable minibus “Mercedes”, which will take you to Alma-Ata in 4 hours and 200 soms ($ 4.75), or an airplane that flies on a daily basis, covering a short distance in half an hour and totally inadequate $ 60 . Trains and buses passed away some time ago for unprofitable.

Former capital of Kazakhstan, as Bishkek, is located in the foothills of the Pamir and friends already mighty slopes, originate on the southern outskirts of Alma-Ata. The city is located in the hollow and moving him from Bishkek, you like goes down, and at some point you’ll see the full panorama of a large metropolis. Newcomers meets a huge bus station with hundreds of buses, minibuses and taxis. Obsessive taxi drivers attacked by anyone, “encroached” on their residence, offering any direction and very high prices. For example, a trip to the city center is no more than 300 tenge ($ 2.2), but you will be prompted twice. More logical to catch the car outside the station. A more reasonable to use one of the many minibuses, in an abundance of cruising just outside the bus station on the standard rate of 30 tenge ($ 0.2).

In Alma-Ata, Republic Square, I have an appointment with Julia Novikova, a charming girl and the main steering gear “Russian Radio – Kazakhstan. In the following days with the head of Julia managed to immerse me into the world and its aura of the city, acquaint with many interesting people, to show the city and its surroundings. Incidentally, I had the opportunity to stay in the apartment of a mutual acquaintance in the city center. With gratitude I should note that 90% of positive emotions and impressions of Kazakhstan and Alma-Ata, in fact, I just connected with communication in a circle of wonderful friends and relatives of Julia, among them Natalia Sludskaya, editor in chief of the Kazakh “Cosmopolitan”, Ismail – Head of State TV channel “Khabar”, Dina Abdulino, elegantly and tastefully celebrates its anniversary, Svetlana on the eve of the winning car and we were being taken on it to Medeo and Chimbulak.

Returning to the city, I want to say that the Alma-Ata, even more Asian city than Bishkek. But while many times more ambitious, broad and global. Nowhere else have I met a number of SUVs on the streets. Neither Moscow nor in Vienna or Paris. Being a stubborn skeptic, I do not give in to the first impression of the surrounding me with friends – in their public and social situation, the jeep – it is more from the category of “MUST” and in their case – an attribute is quite understandable. But … what about the thousands of expensive SUVs, mass filling the streets of Alma-Ata? Gradually the secret was revealed. There are two reasons:

1. Low tariff rates on imports of foreign cars. In other words, if Rossiyanin for import to Russia conditional “Mitsubishi-Pajero 2.8″ to pay around 7-8 thousand dollars of customs duties, a citizen of Kazakhstan only 1,5-2 thousand. The result is the same car is more expensive in Russia for at least 6 thousand U.S. rubles. For most citizens, And this difference will be decisive in favor of cheaper machines urban, rather than a massive SUV.

2. East – a delicate matter. Here, great importance is given to outward signs of prestige, and a jeep – one of the most important, as well as expensive Swiss watches, and so on. Here in particular strongly the notion of “For clothes meet, and people often forced to cool vykladyvatosya material, in order to correspond to a situation which is, or hopes to occupy.

Alma-Ata – the city is very alive and dynamic, there is enough to live comfortably, safely and in a whole lot of fun. Beautiful combination of civilized financial and industrial capital with bazaars, green lanes and friendly people. In addition, it is – a resort town. Internationally renowned Medeo and Chimbulak, located in close proximity to the city and getting there can be an ordinary city bus for 40 tenge ($ 0.30). In the future, I would use the Alma-Ata, as the original tochu and a base for trips to the mountains of the Pamirs and the two-day trip to Issyk-Kul, which is the Kyrgyz side. Dozens of city tourism agencies organize various one-two-day tours of surroundings – Charyn Canyon, Issyk-Kul, a number of other natural attractions. The cost varies in the region of 1,000 tenge (less than 10 dollars) per day. But, as I thought, local travel companies have not yet mastered the art of “seducing” of potential tourists. None of the dozen obzvonennyh my Alma-Ata tourism agencies were unable to clearly and intelligibly describe the proposed tours and information had to produce little if no mites. That’s typical of the conversation:

- Hello, please tell us about you offer tours in the vicinity of Alma-Ata.
- What are your interests?
- I wonder what exactly do you propose, exactly where and on what date.
- Hmmm, we have much to offer. There is a shop-tours in China …
- No, I am interested in tours of natural attractions in the region of Alma-Ata.
- Ah, well, we have tours to Charyn, there Issyk-Kul, there are other places.
- Tell us about Charyn – how many days and at what date.
- There is a race tomorrow.
- How many days a trip to Charyn?
- How far? Tomorrow the bus at 7 am.
- That is for one day, I understand it correctly?
- No, if the Issyk-Kul, then from two to 5 days.
- No, I’m asking about Charyn, tree-stick! The Issyk-Kul and I’ll go without you. What Charyn?
- Well, I tell you, there are tours to Charyn …

In short, do not ever traveled with groups and now will not go, the more that they really can not explain what’s what. Along the way found out that out of the Alma-Ata organizes shopping-tours in the Chinese Urumqi. This is a level crossing on the new train Almaty – Urumchi – Alma-Ata, three days to the hotel, visa. Package Price – 150-200 dollars depending on the level of the hotel and the season. Travel company itself makes you a visa, but for aliens (not citizens of Kazakhstan) individual visa is issued with a small surcharge. Actually, nothing prevents you to do a visa to China without a tour company. Embassy to issue visas to all wishing to $ 45 within five working days. No additional requirements at that time with any offense.

Almaty – Shymkent – Tashkent

On the fifth day of stay in Alma-Ata, I got up in the morning with a clear knowledge that it is time to move in a way. I bought a ticket for the train to Shymkent (650km), once again walked through the city center and the evening went towards Uzbekistan. In this direction a lot of local trains, both direct and following through Shymkent transit. Ticket prices range from 12 to 20 dollars a berth ticket (depends on the “firm” trains), which is somewhat cheaper Russian trains. Most trains arrive in Shymkent before dinner, thus leaving plenty of time to move to Uzbekistan (the border is open from 9 am to 21 pm). From Shymkent station to the bus station – half an hour on foot, or much less in the minibus. I prefer the first thing to look at this little town. Next, you need to find minibuses going to the “Zhibek-Joly (in Kazakh – Silk Road). This is called a border crossing into Uzbekistan and only to him will bring you local transportation. Transportation costs 250 tenge ($ 2), took 1.5 hours and 130km. Direct communication between Kazakhstan and Uzbekistan did not exist and in any event you have to change trains to Tashkent after crossing the border. Do not believe tricky taxi drivers, to argue that they already have it delivered directly to Tashkent – is wiring the money!

After Shymkent, began the next phase of my journey. The transition from a pleasant, nice and nenapryazhnogo stay visiting friends with a measured travel on the outskirts of Alma-Ata, an abrupt change in pressure of all mental and physical energy, hassle and even anger. This state of mind has never left me almost all the time stay in Uzbekistan. Add to this issue I will be back separately, but so far – chronology of events.

Zhibek Joly is the largest and most lively transition in Uzbekistan. Hence, to Tashkent, the entire 10km route. Thousands of people crossing the border daily in all directions. Here, hundreds of exchangers, bazaars, incredible pandemonium extremely intrusive taxi drivers, middlemen for smuggling, all kinds of crooks. The atmosphere is great and makes straining to be as vigilant. My first incident – on the Kazakh side. It turns out I was one day past due registration. At obtained at the entrance of the Kazakhstan card says that within 5 days and must register their residence. Believe – I moved to Kazakhstan from Kyrgyzstan on June 9, today – June 13. It turns out that I will leave Kazakhstan for the fifth day after the entrance of. In other words, this is the last stay in the country of transit, that is not making the registration. But the guards took a different view, their logic is completely devoid of common sense and confused with each minute debate arose.

First, they argue that the registration has expired and now in its sixth day. The method of reflection of the fingers I can not explain to them that today only the fifth day, and not the sixth, as they mistakenly thought. Then their theory of change and they begin to say that registration is required in any case. On what I cite the example of a train – but where the actual register a person who travels by train through Kazakhstan and does not leave the train for the entire journey? The dispute turns on the elevated tone, and all this time, not less than fifty people are queuing and waiting for when all this is over and they will be able to cross the border. In the end I offered to step aside and not interfere with people. But I persist and continue to stand in front of booth border, blocking the passage of himself and his backpack. On the threat to call the police and send me a “monkey” answer that, well enough to bluff and I’m still not going to support corruption and pay them a bribe. Now a dozen of Kazakh customs officers and border guards rushing around, somewhat embarrassed the situation.

I guess I was lucky, maybe you should not initially be on Mentovskie “wiring”? In addition it is likely that the method of “sending” Asian officials are more effective? The experience of living in Israel, I knew that the Arabs are most respected strength and rigidity. They respect and appreciate a stronger, more insidious and more cunning enemy, and despise those who are afraid. Bargain they take as a weakness, but a desire to pay off and did not communicate – as cowardice. I can not with certainty say how the Kazakhs in his mentality is comparable with the Arabs, but a number of features clearly traced. I immediately clarify that I do not have anything against the Kazakh people in general and those wonderful people that I met on the road. But, in the family, as you know is not no freak, is not it? So, anyway – the die is cast, and decided to persevere to the end, I challenged them. Now move them – I hope that the prize will be for me!

I. .. so it was! Cheers! Within half an hour of dirty warfare, attempts pushed me beyond the zone of passport control, death threats, insults – I finally slap an exit stamp and I will leave Kazakhstan. Later learned that it paid almost everything. No matter what – registration, baggage, currency converter. The less you have assets – the greater the chances that all right.

Uzbekistan welcomes tourists beginning a huge shield with the inscription “O` ZBEKISTON “, and then – a table with two stout man in a white coats and the magazine, in which they record all incoming. Here we have the following wiring. It is proposed to pay a couple of dollars for the rapid passage of medical monitoring. Otherwise you will face a full-scale medical examination. Sure, we refuse to pay, but they often drive and pulled me into the side room, leading in passing conversation about the many analysis in the case of non-payment of reward. Well – please! Go into the room, I shoot ryuzak. Joking – so joking to the end! We sat down at the table, then we have the following dialogue:

- So, dear tourist, like your health?
- All right, thank you for your concern.
- This never happens, there is always some kind of disease!
- Well, little things perhaps something to eat. But nothing serious, once again thanks for your concern.
- Tell us about your illnesses, we will necessarily cure! But better pay.
- No, I basically do not give bribes … that’s my problem. Better medical treatment.
- Bribes? You mean that? Well, you will be treated in such a case.
- Oh, thank you! I’m not a very serious disease doctor, but I think you can help me!
- Of course we can, but not better for you to receive medical treatment in the hospital? We then fly, but my conditions do not … maybe give say two dollars and go with the world?
- No, the disease can not tolerate and I suffer very much.
- You’re so vain, in vain!
The doctor went out for a moment and returned with Major-tamozhenikom. Mayor sits opposite me, and the doctor comes out. Begins a new dialogue:
- Do you think you’re very clever, yes? What you taking? Get all that is in a backpack!

It is quietly starting to spread things – shirts, socks, a tube of toothpaste and so on. Mayor goes through things, as if expecting to find dirty socks gold bullion. Of course, his efforts were in vain and I was invited to show your currency. Predyavlyayu Kirghiz handful of small coins, hundreds of Kazakh tenge and ten rubles. All pulling together for a couple of dollars. And make no mistake that all the money keep on the card, for fear of robbery at customs. Of course, that it is not about this particular route, but in general …

… As in the case of the Kazakh customs, the officials worked reflex respect to the lack of fear. Maybe so, but maybe I just was lucky again. Later, telling the story familiar to the Uzbeks, they were horrified, and in one voice betrayed that I was not just lucky, I am fantastically lucky. They said Customs would create me anything, such as throw drugs, or just beat up and then define a “monkey”.

Tashkent

And all the horrors of the boundary behind! I sit down in martshutku (300 som = $ 0.25) and within a quarter of an hour come out in Tashkent. First impression – a huge, dusty Asian city. First buy a newspaper announcement “Tashkent Week”, which are offered for rent rooms and apartments. Average price of 1-room apartment in the center varies from 8 to 20 dollars a day. According to local, it is really to find and cheaper, like $ 5 a day, but closer to the margins, and only after a long search. I called and from the first owner arranged a meeting. He podehal for me, drove to the apartment, all showed told. The nearest subway ( “Hamza”), five minutes walk. They agreed on 10 dollars and was too lazy to bargain, especially for the sake of one day.

Now should withdraw and exchange money. And fly in the ointment – ATM did not give Uzbek scrip. At first I thought that the problem in konretnom ATM. But then, tried a few, realized that the cause of something else. In the near bank offered to give me the money in cash, but only in dollars. However, they refused to immediately change them to the bag, citing lack of cash. Soum was not in any bank, and none of the exchanger (!). No words. Combining trips to Tashkent to find out where I could exchange money, get to the Chor-Su bazaar, in the old part of town. There I was quickly sent to the local Uncle gash, tusuyuschimsya near another “without` sumna “exchanger. There I was, and changed. The same uncle explained that the existence of sums in the bank – a great rarity. If I understood them, then around the exchange created the whole mafia. Bank clerks in all possible ways to prevent the commission of legal transactions in foreign exchange, thereby forcing people to change the currency on the black market. A street money changers, in turn, share part of profits with employees of banks.

This hitromudroy system is added, and the fact that the exchange with the hands formally punishable by imprisonment up to 10 years! But do not be afraid – you are unlikely to go to jail. Just changers work in the same team with the cops and you will most likely no one will touch. But the risk still there – you can not know, shared this me with locating, or not. If discrepancies exist, it is likely that at the time of receipt of the money you catch the gray cardinals under the arms and gently carried out to the nearest police station. There, threatening to jail, cops take away all the money you have, or part thereof. How lucky. Way, I may well be locating – “wonderful” trap for the hapless tourist!

Summary – change money back in Kazakhstan (in Shymkent problems with the Uzbek sumami not), or ask for money to change someone from the local Uzbeks, whom you trust. Of course, that they too will change with it, but it is unlikely that they were arrested. And you – can.

Let me move away from “Mentovskie order” and tell about the city. So, who would not say that – in Tashkent, there is no special historical dostoprimechatelstey. Much of this ancient city was destroyed in the massive earthquake of 1966. Several small tombs and the remnants of the old streets are not pale in comparison with the pearls of Samarkand and Bukhara. Tashkent – is a completely new city, and this is its color. If your time is limited, and the goal – to see the ancient temples, it is better to keep moving in the capital. But if you want to understand this country, to feel its unique aura – to go to Tashkent is unique. There are many parks, fountains, a lot of interesting modern buildings with elegant Oriental architecture, broad avenues, shady alleys.

I enjoyed this city is not “point”, and entire. Just walking, visiting the wonderful museums, tasting national cuisine, talking to people. In the process, want to give STO those who come here and will look for cheap housing. At least two cheap hotels met me in the course of his stay in Tashkent:

- Hotel Shamolov, ul.Chilanzar 20A, Building 16. This nine-storey building, former residence. Near metro Chilanzar. ” It works nice Russian aunt, who will than be able to, make you register, prompt exchange of money and seems to not be deceived. Terms spartan, but tolerable. Rooms with peeling walls, scraps of wallpaper. Dirty bathrooms and probably always current taps. Price double room – $ 5-8 (depends on the availability of amenities inside, or on the floor).

- Hotel “Hadra”, across the street from the Circus (metro Ghafoor Golum). In the city center, close to all attractions. Terms and conditions – a spartan, but there are suites, where a little bit better. Especially miserable common toilets and showers with isolated hoses. But cheap but good. In the suites room services, and hoses are not torn, but only torn and wash while you can. Hurry up, repair here did twenty years and planned to close the third millennium! Cost of 6 to $ 15 (regular rooms and suites).

- Hotel Vokzalna “(in a building zh.d station, Metro -” Tashkent “). A little better than the two listed. Also a long time without repairs, plumbing, too miserable, too dirty walls. But life can be, especially if you arrived in town and just want to sleep without a long search of housing. Rooms cost $ 12-25, but the manageress go to auction and really come to terms at $ 8 per room.

In Tashkent, a dozen more similar, more “Soviet” hotels. All of them are of similar quality and miserable alike. But any better way would cost an order of magnitude more expensive, in addition, Uzbekistan is flourishing price discrimination and a tourist always pays 4-5 times more than a local (the above prices – even for foreigners). Summarizing the hotel issue will say this – if you are looking for a minimum of comfort for small money – a rented house. If you have absolutely no money – go to the mentioned hotel.

In the course of the case, happened to be near the Iranian Embassy, came in and inquired about the possibility of obtaining a visa. Knowing that the receipt thereof in Moscow is very uneasy, I decide for general information to know what the situation here. Now this is not true, but for the future – you never know.

I spend a large room, hung with huge portraits of Ayatollah Khomeini, Khatami and current President of the same in other ways. Suggest to wait five minutes, until the coming consul. That and the consul, Russian-speaking, quite well. Explains that I am interested in the possibility of obtaining Iranian visas. He explained that as a citizen of Russia, I need an invitation from the Iranian citizen, or tour company. In response, saying that nothing like this I do not have, but there is a desire to visit Iran. He shook his head, that there is no other way to get a visa there. But he immediately added, which will give me a list of Iranian tourism agencies, which for $ 20-30 make an invitation. And And this process takes on the strength of a week. Well … thank Consul and leave the embassy.

Going back to the street, I catch myself thinking that any Iranian office almost certainly monitored by American and possibly Israeli intelligence. It is possible that all incoming and outgoing people are filmed with a hidden camera from one of the houses opposite. Then, apparently taken shots carefully reviewed and compiled the citizens of the filmed a special card file. Like all the repercussions it to me in the future? Maybe nothing, and perhaps on occasion, years after some sort … dtsat later recall and charged with Islam, terrorism and the rest? Well, God be with them forever bdyaschimi “knights of the secret front”, among whom, alas, are still dominated dubolomy.

Tashkent – Urgench – Khiva and thinking aloud …

By lunchtime, get to the station, buy a ticket for the train to Urgench and 15.40 leaving Tashkent. Berth ticket is $ 12, Coupe – $ 19. Train quite apanage, no worse and no better than the Russian analogov.Nado say that in recent years, Uzbekistan has made significant efforts to isolate themselves from the outside world. First of all, completely abandoned rail transit through Turkmenistan and Kazakhstan. Previously, all trains from Tashkent to Samarkand and beyond, followed directly by a small enclave of Kazakhstan to the south of the capital. Now this branch and its adjoining freeway was closed and traffic went to detour through the Gulistan and Khavast. Trains in Urgench and Nukus followed through Bukhara and further through the Turkmen city Chardjou westwards to Urgench. Now closed, and this path. But the new branch is built, and now a train from Tashkent to Urgench go through Samarkand – Navoi – Uchkuduk – Hazerasp bypassing Turkmenistan.

By and large, to travel to Uzbekistan to train is very convenient. The country is sufficiently large, relocation can take many hours (eg from Tashkent to Bukhara and Khiva). I would recommend to keep in mind at least two rail routes: Tashkent – Urgench and Tashkent – Bukhara. In the first case, trains twice a week (Monday and Thursday) and the path takes 18 hours, the second – every day at 20:00 and the path it takes 12 hours.

Now – actually thinking aloud. Going forward, I note that Uzbekistan – the country is certainly very interesting and visit it should be mandatory. Architectural monuments of Samarkand, Bukhara, Khiva and Shakhrisabz well preserved and represent a real oriental fairy tale. However, I hardly come to this country again because of the prevailing political situation there and complete police lawlessness. Present Uzbekistan is a hybrid between Brezhnev’s Soviet Union and Asiatic despotism. With all the natural consequences for the local population and tourists. It is hard, most bureaucratized control over movement in the country and absurd system of currency regulation and just a complete feeling of helplessness before the power. This constant tension and anxiety on the subject that I did not take away your money leaving the country, than turn into a routine inspection of documents on the streets of Tashkent, or just in transit.

I will not unfounded and cite examples of the above. With the departure from Uzbekistan, I had to bring a packet of hotel receipts, a ticket for the train to Urgench and humbly excuses on that one night I spent in the bus (the money paid to the driver and the ticket that is, of course, none of the passengers did not give). The money I had inside the shoe, and on his was only a small part in the direct daily expenses. And it also proved to be justified – I managed to keep all the money, despite the fact that attempts to remove them to take the cops at least twice. This is an abiding preoccupation with the entrance – exit from Uzbekistan on where you go, where, why, how much money you’re taking and so on. And these questions are not idle – in a moment the situation can change and you’ll shake out of the bag all his property, fish out of the secluded places cash and credit card. Rest assured – the aim of these procedures be put solely weaning your money under any pretext.

All have heard about the events in Andijan and about “Islamist version of the drama occurred, stubbornly those advocated the Uzbek authorities. In fact, it was about the division of economic spheres of influence between surrogates Islam Karimov and local Fergana bayami. In Uzbekistan, Andijan is the real theme of “taboo”. People do not discuss what is happening at all, or share with each other hints that resembles the Soviet times. I will not pursue the matter in detail, except to say that now to the standard questions cops and border guards added a new – “A journalist is not whether you?”. The correct answer – “No!”. And it is very desirable, what would you believe.

There is a theory that the East can not be otherwise, and only a cruel leader able to preserve the stability and power in the country. I do not argue – there is a grain of truth here. Saddam gnobil as the Kurds and their Iraqi people, hundreds of thousands of people were persecuted and destroyed in this country. The Americans came, to rid Iraq of a tyrant and brutal … the chaos! Try prevnesti “democracy” in Egypt, Syria, Iran – will get the same unpredictable results. Against this background, the events in Uzbekistan is seen quite logical. Therefore categorically refrain from criticism of Islam Karimov, although nowadays it is quite fashionable trend.

Khiva

… City’s story – the city of Khiva,

Getting in its network lost forever …

This city-tale of a thousand and one nights, which few in the world. Where you still encounter this ancient city, perfectly preserved and remain unchanged for many centuries? Perhaps Jerusalem could rival with Khiva, to some extent Indian Dzhelsaymer. But Damascus has undergone significant changes and has lost its primordial color, Rome – probably represents the number of scattered sites within the modern city. In my opinion, if your time in Uzbekistan is limited to a couple of days, the first look at Khiva.

The town is situated 25km south-west of Urgench, the administrative center of the historic area of Khorezm. Sam Urgench, despite a rich history, has kept very little remarkable, but it was through him is the way to Khiva and ancient castles in the desert. Can travel to Khiva trolley for an hour and $ 0.20 (Yes, yes! “Not so long ago from Urgench to Khiva was laid trolleybus line!), Bus or taxi ($ 0.50). Inside the ancient Khiva great many small family hotels, and two or three hotels. I must say that it is relatively expensive, tourist-oriented town and less than $ 5 you will not find even a place in 4-5 of the local room. Rooms in hotels cost from $ 25 per single. You can stop the neighboring Urgench for 2-3 dollars and just go to Khiva in full daylight, but then is lost original background measured rest and evening walks along the ancient streets.

In Khiva, probably live the most spoiled people in Uzbekistan. This obyasnimo – a tiny town that lives exclusively tourism. Here, almost no one spoke in Russian, and kids quickly learn English, and yet, through telepathy borrowed Egyptian obsession and petty scams. Here at every step with you to try to take more than a little cheated. This particularly applies to visits to museums, madrasas and mosques. Near each more or less worthy attractions sure to sit a handful of local residents and tourists to collect money for the visit. In this part of the museum is deystvilno museums in the full sense of the word and there tickets are sold at a stable price. But in most cases, tourists simply “throw” on the money.

- Mister, you have to pay an entrance fee!
- Yes? And how?
- Five thousand sums.
- So many!
- Well, let a thousand soums.

Having shown a lot of stubborn unwillingness “to pay for air, you will almost always pass for free, and artful ushers quickly switch to the next naive stranger. Of course, act in a reasonable and do not try to get there for free, which really should buy a ticket. Find places easily – there must necessarily be posted price for admission. No free pricing does not exist and if a triple adolescents requires you pay an entrance fee, this does not mean that you really should pay.

Before his departure from Khiva, to me there was a ridiculous case. Passing the main tower, the minaret of the city, I decided to go upstairs and see the panoramic view of Khiva and its environs. At the entrance stood an empty chair, but the money-grabbing children have disappeared. Taking this opportunity, I quickly went inside and five minutes later was on the viewing platform. There was nobody there and could safely enjoy the opening overlooking the ancient castle. Imagine my surprise when going down down, I discovered that … locked from the outside! Moreover, malicious children rode on the outside and demanded money for the withdrawal from the tower! My indignation knew no bounds. Meanwhile, they locked the door with a padlock and the like were not going to just let me. On knocking at the door and demands to open – they just laughed boisterously. And I, in turn, did not allow even the thought that will lead to such a cheap blackmail.

Meanwhile, at least half an hour passed, and the door is still no one open. Children have disappeared, and my cries, apparently, apparently no one heard.

Reassured, I sat on the stage and tried to soberly assess the situation and ways out of it. Theoretically, it was clear that this will not last long and as soon as someone from the adults – I was immediately released. But when it happens? The door is as old as the tower itself, but it is still powerful and able to withstand much more than my kicks. At the bottom of this door was a rather dry and mouldering, which suggested that that with a lighter and stale in my newspaper “Tashkent week” door that can burn. Putting his hand to the bottom of the door, I felt that the thrust goes up. Thus, even a small flame to the smoke was drawn up and from the observation deck would be poured smoke. It should as soon as possible to get up and himself, in order not to suffocate in a narrow passage. This event was very extreme, with unpredictable consequences, but no less ridiculous was the situation itself!

So, in fairness, I waited another half hour, thus “closing” in the tower for over an hour in general. Again, knock and call for help – silence. Then take out the paper and proceed to take decisive action …

Fortunately for this beautiful and historic monument and to my great joy, in the midst of the process, I hear the sound of keys and the voice of many people. Hastily trample already burning newspaper and its fragments have wiped lightly blackened corner of the door. Nothing particularly terrible – the damage is minimal and even almost invisible. A minute later I was at liberty. Outside – a dozen local residents, in complete confusion, they miss me and then themselves get into the tower, where they see the newspaper and burnt smell of burning. I hear behind the indignant exclamations, and not wishing to engage in showdowns, quickly run into my hotel, grab a backpack and has already collected three minutes later, having caught the first taxi driver traveling to Urgench. There is no time savings! Even leaving Khiva, was pleased to recall that the owners of the hotel did not have my passport and did not even asked where I came. Excellent!

In Urgench as quickly moved from the market long-distance bus station to bus station (near zh.d wagon) and go out on a quarter of an hour by shuttle bus to Bukhara. Variants falling from Urgench in the center of the country a few: daily flights to Tashkent ($ 35-40 each way); train twice a week through Samarkand to Tashkent for $ 12/19 berth ticket / coupe; further – the price to Bukhara: Taxi $ 32-35 per whole car (4 passengers), bus $ 5-6 up and finally shuttle Icarus for $ 4.

The road is not close – 600 miles, have patience. If you drive a taxi, it will cover the path from the power for 7-8 hours. Drivers squeezed everything out of your Daewoo Nexia, and most of the ways to keep the cruising speed of 140-150km / h. However, local residents are very fond of lingering “technical” stop at roadside tea houses. In our case, promised to break “five minutes” turned into dinner, rest in the afternoon with watching TV and so on. No less than an hour the driver and the rest poputchki sat in teahouses and relaxed. As I understand it – is common. On the other side of the road is long and not very simple – it would be incorrect to require a tired driver does not relax and drive on, is not it?

Around – an endless desert, in places overgrown with bushes withered thorns. The road is boring and dull – even as a table landscape – pulls to sleep. At some point on the right side there is the Amu Darya – the great Asian river. At the bank – Turkmenistan. Fall asleep. And I dream tower in Khiva and I, as her prisoner. Suddenly – a sharp shock, loud voices. Quickly open my eyes – my companions somewhat agitated, the driver dropped the gas and brakes we. And then the following happens: in half a hundred meters from us there is … the very same tower from Khiva! Damn, what a delusion! Tower madly spinning around its axis, with each second increases in size and carrying with it a cloud of dust. It turns into a wall of sand and moving straight at us. We jam on the brakes and turn on the side of the road, but too late – Sand storm (and it was just her) is close. Finally wake up. At the last moment have time to raise the glass. Car slightly potryasyvaet, and on the sides and roof banging stones, reminding deg. Around – bustling with dark-brown darkness. In fact, terrible. And not only me but all the rest. Ten minutes later the storm subsides – it’s time to assess damages. Out of the car, the driver opens the hood – there all filled with sand and the next minute he cleans a mixture of stones, sand and dust from zakutkov engine. We were very lucky – all windows are intact and there are no serious scratches on the car body.

According to the driver, such as storms and tornadoes often occur in these places and often result in casualties. This here “wall” of sand and stones with legostyu throws off the road moving car and a week before this whole family was killed not far from here. They were just blown away by car from the road and overturned about a dozen times …

The driver and passengers quickly recovered, but stressful experiences sent their thoughts with dreams of sexual direction. Especially in the chauffeur succeeded witticisms. He just took me with questions for Russian girls and listing the item, in which he gave to them with his hot love. For a time, out of politeness I pretended that I was funny. Then he began to get their cool osloumiem, but from his horrific Russian language Ozhegov probably would turn over in his grave. After he once again spoke about strong asses Russian women, I was angry and warned that another word – and I planted his skinny ass on Hivskuyu tower. The passengers broke into Homeric laughter, and the guy terribly offended and all the way silent.

Bukhara

The new center in Bukhara represents a multiple of broad squares and avenues with many high-rise hotels are Soviet built. All hotels – within miles of each other, prkrasno visible and surpassing them you will find the best option of accommodation. As in the case with Tashkent, there are two kinds of hotels – the old Soviet bloc in severe disrepair and can cope with two or three hotels renovated and brought to mind. In the first category, you will pay 5.7 dollars for a miserable number (eg Hotel Zeravshan “, where I stayed), the second – of $ 40 or more. There are a few private pensions in the old part of Bukhara, for the sake of interest I wanted to know their value – about $ 15 per room. Apparently, you can bargain at ten, however, own room, I have not seen and will refrain from commenting.

Bukhara – one of the gems of Uzbekistan, is competing with Samarkand in its tourism value. Here is a range of well-preserved old town and many ancient monuments. The historical center is very compact and monuments are located close to each other. Special impression on me has made the Ark fortress and the area between the Miri-Arab and Kalyan Mosque with its massive minaret-tower. Certainly worth a visit: Medressa and Madrasah Abdulazis Khan (located nearby). Ark fortress is impressive from the outside, but that’s inside is nothing to do – in 1920 the old part of Bukhara, and especially the fortress were bombed from airplanes ordered Frunze. Until now, the inside of the castle in ruins and reconstruction is unlikely to be. There are several museums insignificant, but I came late and they were already closed, which is not particularly sorry. But the sight of the old Bukhara, opening the walls of the fortress – is worthy of a separate visit! Even with dozens of interesting sites can be visited within a few hours. In some of them are certainly worth a visit, but in the majority – and not necessarily enough to admire from a distance.

By the way, at the time of my stay in the fortress there was a funny episode: stand and admire the evening the city, walking beside the policeman. He came up to me and starts to tell me that his great-grandfather served in the fortress, and fought the Red Army when they captured Bukhara. In this case, hard gesticulating policeman pointed his hand, where it went street fights, where the Emir and stronger soldiers from advancing Russian. And at the very moment when he uttered the phrase “… They dropped bombs on the fortress and started a fire …”, throughout Bukhara … passed out the light. Quite seriously!

As if by magic, the town for a few seconds, plunged into darkness. The policeman stood in complete confusion. I put the version that Anatoly Chubais took over Bukhara and started to reform the energy sector of the city. But the policeman did not appreciate my sarcasm (or he has not heard about Chubais?) And quickly headed for the exit from the fortress.

In the old town was completely dark – not working fountains, silent numerous restaurants musicians. Hundreds of people wandered through the dark ghosts of old streets in search of the way home. Passing of a restaurant, I heard the English speech. What a hysterical aunt proved his companion, that now they will not have dinner, and yet the order has already been made. Laughter’s sake, I walked a few meters away from them, said in a loud voice: “Even more, than to stay hungry – we` ll stay here forever! ” (Even more than to stay hungry – we are here to stay forever!). But they just stopped talking and began to turn heads in search of the source of these “magic” words.

For a long time I reached the hotel, and then, in the dark up to her room. In the moonlight spread a bed and lay down to sleep. Electricity made in the middle of the night and I was awakened by a bright light in the room. Well, on the clock – after midnight – it’s time to take a shower.

Samarkand

From early morning, and being unable to sleep, send to the bus station, in a remote part of kgoroda, as if to be exact, in the seven (!) Kilometers from the center. All this distance I walked, no regrets – in my thoughts and feelings felt strannaaya instability on the meaning of life and for its calming needed good physical jolt. For example a couple of hours to walk from 20-kilogramovym backpack and sleeping areas to Bukhara!

Friends, do not do my mistake, do not sit in the crowded shuttle Icarus, the following between the cities of Uzbekistan! Leaving from Bukhara to this so cheap ($ 2) transport and killed at 6:00 am, I arrived in Samarkand, only an hour of the day. In other words, making stops in almost every village, the bus crossed 270km road for 7 (!) Hours and it was rapid. Much more practical to use the services of a taxi, where each of the four passengers thrown off at $ 4-5 and after two and a half hours you’ll be in Samarkand.

Bus Station and zh.d station located on the opposite of Samarkand outskirts of the city and arrived in the city by public transport, you are in any case will have to take a minibus. Do not get fooled by persuasion taxi drivers on the lack of buses and minibuses. Both are awaiting passengers at a hundred meters from avtovozala. For $ 0.10 you dovezut to the Registan Square. Ibid, near the historical center, located nearly all the hotels of the city. Hotel Afrosiyab “- the most expensive hotel of the city, aimed at foreigners. But the nearby multi-storey hotel “Samarkand” – this is what you need. First close to the Registan (five minutes walk), and secondly cheap but good. Double room will cost $ 15, single – $ 10. Small to neg – really throw off the price of the quarter. Rooms relatively tolerant and that is important – there are hot and cold water (at the Samarkand hot water does not happen most of the year, and served cold for two hours each morning and evening).

I was already ready to take root in the said “Samarkand”, but then I was approached by an elegant young lady and offered to withdraw from her apartment for a lower cost than a room. She honestly has warned that there will be no hot water and will be interruptions in the cold. But the apartment with a renovated, satellite antenna, air conditioning and huge double bed. Moreover, she personally took me there in his car. The apartment was really that necessary – I realized that need it the comfort of home at least a couple of days. Broken and dirty manner Uzbek hotels began to tire. They agreed on $ 7 and I arrange it.

… There is a suggestion that Samarkand – the city of mostly young, and the pair of objects worthy of interest scattered throughout the city. Not agree with this theory. Quite a lot of significant historical monuments are located within the city center – Registan, a huge mosque Honat-Khatun, a couple of impressive mausoleums and others. Before any of them can walk for ten to fifteen minutes. So, first of all – Registan. This is – a magnificent, large, well-preserved The monuments of architecture and art. I will not go into the historical retreat – their oblii you will find in the guidebooks, except to say that his visit is two-fold.

First, from 8.30 to 9.00 in the morning you can visit the Registan’s free (at that time already spent a police night watch, and ushers come to only nine in the morning). If you are already inside, you can walk as many – no one forces you to buy a ticket, so you can save a few dollars for admission. The second time is come in the evening, from seven to eight hours. At this time the ushers have gone home and the service of atonement for the police. These same police officers for a small fee you open one of the minarets and Registanskaya you, climbing stairs, can admire the wonderful view over the city and actually Registan Square. Sometimes, if the police do not expect testing, you will be offered podoryti to 5.30 in the morning, climb the minaret and remove the sunrise. Usual fare – two dollars. But we can get together and less.

The next day I slept until dinner, then puzzled on registration of his stay in the city. As mentioned in the beginning of the story – living in a hotel you will receive automatic registration, but if you’re in the apartment – everything depends on the landlord. , This question I raised at the meeting with the hostess and she prdlozhila me to make the registration by paying for a cheap hotel in the suburbs for two days. In total it came out about six dollars. Not much, but unpleasant – to live in an apartment, pay for it and at the same pay for the hotel is not living in it. But to do something it was not, at the exit of Uzbekistan does not want policemen to leave no ground for a bribe.

As a result of long reflection, I came to realize that salvation from this situation is a trip to nearby Tajikistan. Visited neighboring countries and returned back to Uzbekistan, I would have needed 3 days to re-register. And this time is quite enough for that would leave the “Land of Temples and cops.”

Tajikistan

The nearest checkpoint in Tajikistan is 40 km east of Samarkand on the highway Samarkand-Pendjikent. Minibuses, as occupancy, are sent there from parking in front of the Registan. Travel costs $ 0.75 but with you, as a well-deserved tourist Uzbekistan, will ask two or three times more. In the process of bargaining has been involved ten people, not less, and the conversation with something like this:

-How much is travel by shuttle bus to the border?
- Sadys, sadys brother, has come!
- Stop, you call me the price before!
- $ 10 and went to his brother, not much!
- Good, but first please take a look at my forehead … (a little lean, what would it be more convenient to study my forehead. Those little confused considering, not understanding why this is necessary).
- Brother, but you on the forehead can not see anything!
- Nothing? Absolutely nothing? Maybe there is a small hole? Look closely!
- No, brother! Nothing, absolutely nothing!
- So what, fuck you … № #@&%*^!!! (pi-pi-pi) I Morse, dammit!

The men fell back to the side, but then everyone realized heartily laughed and patted me on the shoulder, said that, they say – that is – we, my brother! Will you go for the usual price, I mean for 800 soums ($ 0.75). The above joke amused them beyond measure, and one of them even took out a pen and wrote it down on paper, that would not forget.

Way to Tajikistan lies in the countryside. One village is replaced by another, but on the horizon more clearly loom the Pamir mountains, which is already on the Tajik side. The border is a standard canopy for transport, a small one-story building near the border fence and stretches on both sides of the transition. Generally speaking, Uzbekistan carefully partitioned off from its neighbors. Fences have grown in most of the border with Kazakhstan and Tajikistan, far constructed with Kyrgyzstan and Turkmenistan. In my opinion, this is done not so much to prevent the flow of contraband, but for limiting the movement of its own citizens. As you know, tens of thousands of Uzbeks are not the first year of hiding in neighboring countries, fearing for their lives. And the fears they have serious, especially spectacularly in the wake of recent events in Andijan.

The border pass briskly and almost without excitement. And really – things in Samarkand, in the apartment. Money – hidden in the street, in a safe place in case they will be searched. Especially nothing to fear, I will be able to select no more than fifteen dollars, which were in cash. And then, if the reach of personal search and vskroyut sneaker with his left leg. Live! Perhaps it is appropriate to explain the essence of my worries, because, otherwise, might be the impression of a revelation gone to one extreme. The logic was as follows:

On this day, I had already registered and the idea of the border to find out where I live. Yes, I live in the apartment, but registration is not available – a pretext for new and emerging issues from the series “Where you live, where you are going, where are going, how much money you are traveling, where are your thing, not a journalist you know?” and so on. Probably nothing terrible would happen, but it is not excluded that the border cops called his colleagues in Samarkand and asked them to check whether I lived at that address. There would leave the team from the nearest police station, in the courtyard bored grandmother immediately tell that a foreigner here appeared. The same grandmother as a prompt to contact the apartment owner, and very soon cops get inside and take my belongings searched. Stealing there is nothing in particular – not the newest hiking thing. No money, no documents they will not find, because they are hidden outside the apartment and into the hands of cops do not fall under any scenario.

Fortunately, everything turned out. Nobody asked me a single question and five minutes later I step on the road to the Tajik side of the post. There’s much calmer and easier. A tired kid-soldier with a huge stupid helmet on his head and gun over his shoulder, raises the barrier. Peace be with you, Tajikistan!

Several building cabins, with red-green stripes – that all property of the Tajik border guards and customs officers. Dozen sleepy soldiers sit on their haunches in the shade of one of the booths, and on the bonnet of the military UAZ dozing man to the rank of major with bare feet. That is the border … is that “locked”. At my appearance is a revival – Several soldiers slowly rise and something screaming sleeping on the hood of the officer. He wakes up long and puzzled looks in my direction, then reluctantly slips from the car and coming toward me. Go into the van, a major flop in a chair under the portrait of President Rakhmonov and smiles broadly.

He reacted with great surprise to the fact that tourist from Russia itself granted in Tajikistan, but also such “roundabout” way. She said that recently there was a guy-hitchhikers from Ufa, which as lime robbed at Uzbek customs. I nod my understanding, agree that the Uzbeks are doing a complete outrage against tourists, and soon it will cease to come at all. Mayor added that they were building a fence on the border with Tajikistan because they are afraid of Tajiks. According to him, Samarkand – the primordial city Tajik and Uzbeks are afraid that the Tajiks have taken away his back.

Very soon we shake each other hands, I get a passport stamp “Chumhury Tojikiston” and go out on the track. And there – completely deserted. Several Zhuguley stand at the roadside, in the same sitting their drivers. But no one rushes to meet the calls go to him. The local taxi drivers are self-esteem and expect that the passenger himself fit and asks about travel. That’s what “unspoiled” by mass tourism! I explained that travel to the nearest town Pendjikent (25km) costs $ 4 for the whole machine. So far, there is one passenger. So what are waiting for another three and leave.

Penjikent – one of the oldest cities of Central Asia, and now the administrative center of this part of Tajikistan. The city is surrounded by mighty slopes of the Pamir mountains, a bit off the bustling river Zeravshan – shallow, but swift and broad. In the city there are interesting archaeological museum with many exhibits. Alas, all this bears the stamp of neglect and poverty – peeling ceilings, ramshackle stands, even the Soviet commentary on the exhibits in Russian. Approximately the same looks and the town itself – shabby nine-storied building at the entrance, part of the houses abandoned by its inhabitants, some unfinished since Soviet times. A small market with a fantastically low prices. Since mail is sent a postcard home – not impossible that it ever would.

Later, on the advice of local residents to send in the best restaurant in town. It is very nice and comfortable – walking pheasants, a small fountain, friendly hosts. Heartily lunch, I was about to move on, but I was invited to his table, local elders in traditional robes and skullcaps. We talked for a long time about life, about politics. They said that once in Penjikent worked two factories – canning and tobacco. Now do not work, but people survive only with their own economy. This situation almost everywhere in Tajikistan. Little better in Dushanbe and Khujand, but after hundreds of thousands of people in the province surged in the capital – there also has been hard work. According to my interlocutors, one-third of Tajikistan’s population works in Russia and only this saves people from hunger, and the country from the social upheaval that had taken place in 1990-92. Then, tens of thousands of people died during the Civil War. What can I say – all these things, alas, are obvious …

In connection with the above, remember the general anti-Tajik hysteria in Russia, and especially the statements of Yevgeny Roizman – Yekaterinburg policy (already sitting in the State Duma) and chapter fund “City Without Drugs” in one person. All these accusations of Tajiks in involvement in drug trafficking, calls for the introduction of visa regime with the republics of Central Asia and the organization of anti-Tajik rallies in cities of Russia. It seems that not all the power of `haves represent a true state of affairs, namely the fact that Tajikistan Russia needs no less, that Russia and the Tajik hard worker!

Unlike the U.S., Russia can not offer these republics no serious investment, no long-term development and aid. As we know, only one of their nostalgia for the Soviet Union not to leave politics and make money. So far a couple of Tajikistan with Kyrgyzstan are the main geopolitical ally of Russia in this vital region. The only thing that present-day Russia can offer to these countries – is to enable their citizens to freely travel to Russia and to earn a living. Plus, hopes to acquire large stocks of weapons as the withdrawal of Russian troops from the region. If you deprive them of this little – it is unlikely that the current pro `Moscow’s Central Asian leaders have long hold on power, but Russia would lose the largest strategic foothold than immediately take advantage of … well, if the Americans! And what if the Islamists?

On the way back to the border with Uzbekistan, are in the same car with a man who on this occasion, asked me to read him a letter from his son. Whether he sees bad, or did not read. So, or otherwise take in hand the envelope and saw the return address – “CTI number 27, Nizhny Novgorod region. The son, apparently through an interpreter, wrote that the zone all is well, feeding normally, do not hurt. Only very want to go home. Please send him 20 rubles ($ 700) through which he can escape prematurely. Shall read out all of this peasant. He cries. For some time in silence, then he asked my opinion – to send money or not. He said that for them it is a huge amount and they will have to collect all the villages, everyone will be able to how many will sell old television “Horizon”, will sell harvested for winter wood for the stove. But whether the money will reach up to his son ..?

Road home and the seven circles of hell

Again the border, I get an entry stamp in Uzbekistan. Now I have in store for three days, during which you can not register, but it is important to have time to leave the country. The next morning, I collect things, I called the hostess – she comes to pick up the key. On the way to the bus station take away the money hoarded in the yard and a passport. Russian cabbie dovozit me to the exit of Samarkand, where dozens of cars and drivers waiting for passengers to Tashkent (300km). The usual fee – 5.6 dollars. Soon our Nexia filled and we are starting. Starts countdown – I’m going back home!

My neighbors – a couple of Tajiks who travel to Moscow to earn money. He – school physics teacher from Khujand, wife – a nurse. There are no clear plans about living and working in Moscow, they do not. What are some relatives have promised to temporarily instill in his apartment in Vykhino, also promised to help find jobs for apartment. Since they are about a thousand dollars, of which almost half will go on the road. Separate budget item – Mentovskie extortion in the course of movement. First, bribe the Uzbek border guards that would not have clung to the documents. Then the same thing – Kazakh border guards, then bribe in Russia pograntsam Iletsk. And finally – extortions Moscow cops at the station. All this translates into a large sum, but the main thing they say – to get there.

At the Tashkent zh.d station going unthinkable act! Great vavilonovo pandemonium of people waiting to board the train number 5 “Tashkent-Moscow”. But we stopped at the station, as we did directly attacked dozens (!) Brokers selling tickets for this train. Already experienced Tajiks just dismiss them as importunate flies and we choose to light. Alas, this step can not tread without new and emerging issues. Now, we clung to the Uzbek cops. My passport is not aroused their interest, but the Tajiks, they clung to tenaciously and viciously. That picture faded, the residence permit is not what it is that. Pockets of my fellow travelers are facilitated by a 10-dollar bill. Without losing time rapidly moving towards the exit to the platform, fighting off the passing obsessions crooks offering to plant a train without tickets.

On the platform cops spend a wholesale withdrawal of money from passengers. Reminiscent of the Moscow Metro with their catch nonresident. I walk without problems, my fellow travelers, and many others – were caught again. No tickets are not released on the platform – to do nothing and the regular $ 10 end up in the pocket of the guardians of order. But we are on the platform, hurray!

Here we find some familiar Tajiks, is also a “ticket broker”, but supposedly “reliable”. He tries to persuade us all to pay him $ 100 per person and in return guarantees replanting a sleeping car to Moscow. I must say that tickets for the train to Moscow are very expensive – 180 (!) Dollars in the coupe and 134 dollars a berth ticket. At the same time the ticket is not a standard – at least that’s what they say cashiers. In fact, as I see it, tickets are available in fairly large quantities. Just at the station there is a real ticket mafia, which in one team working cashiers, conductors, and cops. In refusing to sell tickets, you have artificially pushed into the hands of rogues, what I tell you below.

Interestingly, under such circumstances, people are not flying the plane, which costs about the same. Casket opens very simply. The fact is that almost all take with them a considerable baggage and the aircraft they will pay hundreds of dollars for an edge. The second reason is even more global. Border control in Sheremetyevo and Domodedovo much more serious than at land crossings. If a railroad crossing Iletsk quite feasible to bring in almost anything, only by paying a fixed conductor bribe border guards and customs, then in Moscow getting worse – it could expand, or even to determine the Monkey. A reason for this – though take away, just a little dig in their things, or browse through passport full of stamps of the deportation from Russia for illegal stay and work.

Meanwhile, the Tajiks have already played the mediator for a hundred dollars and offered me to follow their example, was he already goes to transfer money to the conductor and it is urgent. Such an alignment just shocked me. Trying to be polite (and it is not easy in this context), explains dilyage that any money he gets as long as we do not occupy a place in the compartment and the train does not touch you. In this case, I am ready to give him no more than a tenth of the amount. The second part of the money I offered him after crossing the border with Kazahstananom and the third – not earlier than we vedem in Russia.

No less than an hour lasted an exhausting bargaining and negotiations. The mediator is clearly not happy that I offered him, the more that the Tajiks agree with me and took from him his money back. In the end, agreement was reached – we pay for $ 70 with the nose to Moscow. But in parts and not earlier than shall leave from Uzbekistan. All this time, from all sides to stick to us and other intermediaries to fight them off has no strength. Methodically send them ringing Russian obscenities.

I do not know, probably exaggerating, but I was originally not in the least believe in this whole adventure with replanting the train. Initially do not have anything to pay, and the only thing at all involved in this production – solely from the sport. It is therefore not surprised when the train started, and dozens of people have already paid to intermediaries for their own travel, started in a panic rushing to the station, feeling a longing to find their “benefactors”. It’s funny that my companions quite honestly amazed shown me the “great wisdom” and speculated, but I was not a Jew. I had to admit that any blood in my presence. But I do not agree with the fact that the reluctance to give their hard-earned crooks – there is wisdom, but rather the average cautious. Themselves as Tajiks have caused me great surprise of his childish simplicity and a chronic lack of understanding of this cruel world.

Meanwhile, railway station comedy coming to an end, the people gradually dispersed, the excitement gradually abated. It’s time to wish good luck to my new friend, bye and advanced to the airport – the closest plane to Moscow, flew at night. And then a new round of adventures! My friends once again picked up some friend and he is already over $ 50 promises to catch up with the train to the border station and to plant us in it. Moreover – he is willing to take the money already in Kazakhstan. What a phenomenal honesty, just do not fit into sound. Here of course there is a trick, but where is he? Thoughts frantically rush to the head. A minute later, while Tajiks are negotiating, I seen three options:

1. We sit down in the car, we pay money, but the conductor after some time, threatening to land, requires more money.
2. Mediators ferret out how much money we have is, and when moving across the border pass this information to policemen – we are robbed and dropped off from cars. Then the cops are sharing with intermediaries.
3. We just take out of town, robbed and left there.
Why do you remember the bearded Georgian anecdote:
Two Georgians went to wash in the bath
Both one-time slip soap
Looking at each other they say –
“Mdda … is washed”.

However, similar to what awaits us is the first option. All too many people have typed these intermediaries – as many as four Gazelle, can all put up against a wall and shot? No, this is clearly provided another option. Realizing that much risk, yet all agree to go, and very soon we are rushing on the highway. Behind the remains of Tashkent and here we arrive at the familiar is the border with Kazakhstan Zhibek-Joly. A team of intermediaries is a five-man – thick, zhlobskogo kind unshaven face. I told them something did not like and they offer me to pay for their passage to the border and drive himself to himself. As explained Tajiks, I seemed strange fellow mediators and the risk they are unwilling. I readily agree to leave this “business”, but for the fact that the “contract” terminated at the initiative of the Executive, they refuse to pay anything. It starts with a regular market on the “must – must not. But my side take all the passengers all the “Gazelle”, and their nearly three dozen people!

Mediators reluctantly agree to let me stay, fearing that the continuation of noisy showdown scare away other customers, and their idea will fail completely. But I see that the mediators are very unhappy with my presence in the team and seems to be in Uzbek discuss how to get rid of me. Seems they planning to detain me at the customs, at least in their conversation catch the word “Kedem” (Customs). Actually, the way it happened – when crossing the border just me hooked customs and demanded to lay on the table all the contents of a backpack. While I searched, the group has already moved to the Kazakhstani side. Five minutes later, however, one of the mediators returned, threw a couple of words dosmatrivayuschuemu my custom officer and he left me alone. It turned out that passengers en masse refused to go until I will go abroad and do not go with them. It appears that the suspect had already spread to all.

So, we’re going to … Kazakh town of Turkestan, where we expect the next “team” specializing in the replanting of the train. Go 270km, not close, and even in the night. Tashkent train should arrive there at 4 o’clock in the morning and we have time to get ahead on the highway. After about half an hour we arrive in Shymkent, here they have a smoke. Here is an attempt to get some money for “replanting”. Someone hastened to pay, but the majority referred to the fact that the opinion of others – the payment has already passed in the car and not earlier.

At that moment, when I went to get water to a nearby tea house, heard the sudden roar startuyushchikh machines. I turned around and saw leave “Gazelle” and my backpack, lay directly on the pavement! The owner of the stall was shocked at not less than my own and offered to call the police. But the first thing I brought ryuzak, shook the dust, sat on the bench. Gee, here’s how they decided to get rid of me. Now I was in the middle of the night in Shymkent. History less amused me.

I am not going to repeat all subsequent steps. I went to the station, first of all convinced of the correctness of their version of alleged “lack of tickets in Tashkent”. Became convinced completely banal way – went to the cashier and asked about tickets for the same train Tashkent-Moscow. What do you think? Tickets – complete. On the choice of N, Coupe, Platsart. More comments ..? Soon sit on the train “Almaty – Aktobe, and another three hours later we arrived at the same Turkestan, where actually carried passengers Gazelle. They were there! Right at the station! Leaning out of windows cry already familiar Tajiks, they quickly run to the train, nervously agree with the conductor and sit in my compartment.

It turned out that their banal “forsaken”, which actually expected. First of all crooks to explain to passengers that I – in disguise GEBEshnik and if they had not left in Shymkent, then I would not have allowed them to put people on the train. Along the way they collected money from people and all paid for, except that a few “stubborn”. But when they did they brought people in Turkistan, it became clear that the train has already left (!), And now we have to wait a bit. Just two days. Before the arrival of the next train “Tashkent-Moscow”. Meanwhile, from the crooks and trace! Someone went to the local police, but they refused to take a statement – apparently all they have bred there.
… Through the night we arrived in Aktobe, where I moved to the Urals, and the Tajiks were waiting for the next train to Moscow. Fortunately, what goes through Aqtobe their lot.

Last dash

Aqtobe – quite a large West-Kazakhstani city in close proximity to the border with Russia. In another situation, perhaps I would have devoted a couple of hours walking in this city, but now … tired of ending journey exceeded permissible limits. More than usual wanted to go home, in a hot bath and warm bed. From Aktobe bus station is very well traveled ancient manhole in the town of Orsk Russia, that in the 120km to the north. Had to go on the floor on its own backpack, because of the crowded bus, but this will for this trip has already become accustomed!

Road to Russia lay through hilly steppe landscape. The asphalt of the road was completed shortly after the exit outside Aqtobe and we confidently rolled truck on dusty dirt road. Beauty in a moment filled with dust. Coughing and sneezing, the passengers began to disclose all the windows and hatches. Primer does not end there, and riding, reminiscent slalom, lasted two hours, until the border post. Kazakhstan Customs is located in the middle of the endless steppes and represents a svezheotstroennoe two-storey building with customs and some temporary cabins border. Customs welcomes all visitors welcome in Russian and Kazakh languages, “Welcome to the border post Alimbet.

It should be noted that at the border with Russia, Kazakh border guards behave amazingly polite and correct. Not an example of his South Kazakhstani colleagues from Uzbek border! No attempt to alleviate your pockets of excess cash, no house searches of personal belongings. Even in the late immigration card some passengers reaction is quite peaceful, like “Please, next time register in time!”.

Next грузимся back to the bus, we drive a kilometer and find ourselves at the gates of Russia’s frontier. Everything on the “Soviet” long, difficult and nervously. No, Russia’s border guards did not behave like the Uzbeks and Kazakhs south. But in contrast to Kazakhstan will not be met by a welcoming sign at the entrance, you will no smile, and the situation will resemble a transit camps for convicts on their way to the zone. Gloomy soldiers with machine guns walking around us, while we stand in a queue at passport control. What – but probably at the boundary of the castle?

At the customs for some reason check everybody, that’s great delay the process of the border. Tired Aunt dumped on long tables its uncomplicated possessions: an old rumpled sweater, a jar of home-made jam for the grandchildren, glasses with a shackle, the newspaper “Komsomolskaya Pravda”. Customs officers, almost without looking at things, say: “Come in, all right. Next!”. Apparently now they have another indication of the authorities to triple efforts to apprehend criminals and smugglers. Following the letter of the order, but to understand its futility, they are only formally carrying out the will of the authorities. And really – what a serious smuggler lucky your goods through customs, at the time, as has been around for thousands of miles by anyone not protected by Russo-Kazakh borderlands?

I remember a story an old friend, an employee at the time as an officer in the South Urals stretch of the border with Kazakhstan:

… Yes there is some bound on the castle? Zaborov then no no. Go on – do not want to! Twice a day we do fly a helicopter. One hundred and fifty miles there and back. Always at the same time. Sometimes see the top border violators – some bus or passenger car. Usually these are local residents, many live on the Kazakh side and gardens on their Russia. Yes, and relatives to and fro travel, usually without any documents at all. Then announce to the ground, those expelled UAZ with the border guards. Or not being returned when as …

An hour later, got to Orsk, where I was to spend a couple of hours waiting for a train to Yekaterinburg.

End.