Silk Road Central Asia Uzbekistan

By the way, I advise you to check the mini-bar immediately on arrival: the list we have found several bottles of water, while others were half empty. We immediately went to reception and was told about it. Due to the fact that we did not quite trust the staff in the calculations, then the next day call back in de tour and explained the problem with mini-bar. Employee de toura Jeanne when we talked with the staff and more problems with the mini-bar we have not encountered.

 Underwear in the hotel was changed every day, on average 5 times a week. I advise to keep the dollar at the tip cleaner, and then it would be better to get out of the room.

They fed us simply superb: breakfast and dinner – “Swedish table”. Large variety of products, attentive staff. And as the whole table was decorated with food, there were also deer, made from oil, and flowers carved from watermelon and oranges, and fish, carved from carrots and pumpkins!

Now about the Silk Road hotel:

Part 1. Traveling the Silk Road Resort. 3-storey lovely building, standing near the sea. Good to live with a Silk Road sea view, view of the road is not too attractive.

Several pools interconnected, with many bridges and junctions of different depths, decorated with palm trees. Around the pool is a sperm whale, we get down inside of it, there are aquariums with fish. There is a sauna, Silk Road bath, small gym, a small warm pool …

Part 2. Uzbekistan Silk Road Park. This could come, even with their pets. Located on the hill (there you can get on the elevator, passing by a waterfall with frogs:), or the staff will take you to the car). The huge territory, in the style of a big village. There are different areas: the garden ( “Silk Road”) – the tourists live in houses, go out – and before you plantation with tomatoes, peppers, parsley, and flowers …; “Forest” – Various “deer” trail, Noah’s ark, decorated trees , waterfalls; “Uzbekistan” – that’s where the fun: pens with cows, sheep, goats, chickens, peacocks, equestrian ranch – everything is alive, you can milk a cow, ride horses or gather eggs in the henhouse in the morning:) (to live there, though on the amateur – permanent zapaz manure:)). This whole area is very beautiful, big, it’s very nice to walk … a lot of different cafes, and amazing view from the mountain. By the way, for tourists from other hotels, walk across Uzbekistan worth $ 5.

Children at this hotel just cool. A lot of entertainment, mini-club, disco, animals. Disco is in very nicely decorated “Uzbekistan Tourism“. There is a bowling-bar, which can settle down in the evening show program or “live music”. There you can play billiards, bowling, darts, tennis and various children’s slot machines.

Animation team (though in this time of year it was small) are constantly engaged with the children, made various cocktail games on the beach. / Special thanks to you guys.

The number of different bars and cafes throughout not count, it is convenient that the calculations need only card on the number (and it is also the key). When you buy anything in the hotel you will be issued by (upon presentation of this card).

August 1999

In late July 99, we decided to go to relax. Of course, got the usual question “where?” I have been to many countries, so I have to compare with. We decided to go to Uzbekistan, mainly because the price was quite low. We stayed there for 2 weeks in 4 **** hotel zvezdochenom called “FESTIVAL TEKIROVA”. It turned out alright it all including flights from Bukhara to Tashkent in 50 doll. (per person)

So, first impressions. Flying up to Tashkent, we were told that after 20 minutes we landed at the airport. Temperature in Tashkent 30C. Soon after, a fairly quick procedure for obtaining a visa, we left the airport. Frankly, we do not even understand where we went. There was hotter and more humid than in the Uzbekistan bath. Quite quickly we found a bus in which he worked kondishn. It was a real pleasure. When all the tourists went into the bus first question was a girl guide: “What is the temperature you were told the plane, 30 degrees?” She looked at the thermometer, he showed 38C. And this is exactly 100% humidity. The bus came a light state of shock. In the plane is not specifically say this temperature, so as not to scare away tourists.

Generally, the temperature in Uzbekistan – is a separate conversation, but more about that later. So, we went to the hotel. The road is very beautiful, left the sea, and the right thick forest of Uzbek pines and other vegetation, which rise above the crown of coconut palms. Approximately 2 hours later we arrived at the hotel.

Hotels with such plants in the garden, not far from Central Asia, I have never seen. One might think that I am not now what – that Uzbekistan, as in India or Turkmenistan What’s there just was not: Banana palms, bushes meter aloe, strange colors on 2 meters and a huge bamboo.

We stayed in the village Samarkand, easy to remember: you – the cow, which is 15 km. from the well-known Bukhara (thanks to the company “Samarkand” for the correct choice of the place).

Uzbekistan Tours and Travel

Part 1
Here you will not read about the benefits of Swedish tables, animations and excursion programs, of any tour operators or anthills. Our route ran away from natoptannyh Uzbekistan tourist trail and it is this, in my opinion, was the most valuable quality of our expedition.

Brief background
The decision to visit Uzbekistan was based on the stunning exhibits of the British Museum and information about the amazing preservation of ancient Greek and Roman ruins on its territory. That is, we rode, in fact, in Kazakhstan! Lycia, Pamphylia, and Pergamum, the area of the ancient world, which we intend to visit. To navigate to the historical places I chose Neos Guide Uzbekistan, published by Michelin and Rough Guide for the selection of housing and restaurants. The starting point was chosen Tashkent and tickets – the only service that was provided to us to Uzbekistan agency.

Traveling first. Early September
Upon arrival at the airport, we rented a car and become happy owners of Fiat Siena, went to the west of Tashkent. Successfully passing Bukhara and Tekirova, we stayed in the wonderful village of Cirali near the ruins of the city of Olympos. Our choice is stopped at a small hostel, Adele (36 rooms), consisting of small square houses surrounding the picturesque garden, swimming pool and restaurant. Village is small and consists of a couple of dozen hotels and otelchikov surrounded by garnet and orange groves. It should cross the road (dirt) and get out of the pine thicket, you find on the beach. The coastline is a reserve and on the on the beach, there are no any traces of civilization …

The valley is surrounded by mountains, the highest of which (2500 m) and gave its name to the nearby town – Mount Olympus (Mountain). Half an hour on the beach and we are already in the southern part of the bay, where the confluence of a small river in the sea and the town are the ruins of Olympus. Bed of the river and the whole area thickly overgrown with trees and bushes – so bumping wonder you have stored on the ruins of baths, storage space and just homes, feel Indiana Jones. City never excavated by archaeologists and still keeps its secrets. The trail leading into the city on one side of the stream, protected by tax collectors in the amount of USD 5 a head, but if you enter it on the other side, through bushes, it is not worth anything. Since the constant exactions of the Uzbeks in places of historical value fetched badly, have been developed methods of struggle: to enter or exit through the unguarded area; bargain (citing the late hour visit, so that only paid in the nearby museum, etc.). That sometimes allows you to save money .

In the same bay on the north side of the mountains is the second attraction – the Chimera. According to legend, they defeated the Chimera, but in reality it is a rocky slope, from which a random field of flame. The amazing phenomenon has been known since ancient times and the ruins of Greek and Byzantine structures confirm the former liveliness of the place. Now to the ruins to go along the narrow path (constantly bumping into the remnants of a broader, stone-paved path, but the abandoned and crumbling) through a beautiful pine grove.

However, in one place can not sit, and we are heading toward the town Mirra – one of the biggest cities of Lycia. The significance of the city confirms the large amphitheater and the amazing necropolis, carved in the rocks, as well as the fact that the bishop’s chair at the time of St. Nicholas was located there. Unfortunately, in the city is the Uzbek settlement and the extensive greenhouses, so that also here to observe the greatness of ancient culture can only isolated fragments. Visit the Church of St. Nicholas remembered the prohibitively high price and the perfect inexpressiveness preserved ruins … Perhaps a visit to the attractions can be completely deleted from the program.

When we parked the car, a young man approached us and offered individual travel by motor boat to the sunken city. Of course, we agreed! And not a moment’s regretted it, although people with poor vestibular apparatus is better to choose a more stable craft. Our frail canoe riding the waves, and some parts of the body and then reminded of the fortress of seats …

Kekova Island – once on the site of the strait between the mainland and the island was a city of Simena. As a result of the disaster, he went under water and the surface was only a necropolis sarcophagi and parts of buildings, cut into the rock. An amazing experience – you’ll never get along barren island, and in the coastal cliffs – doorways and staircases, fragments of walls and under floors and potholes lining.

On the mainland, while mainland there on the road will not get, is p Kalka. A small marina and cabins tucked away on a hillside. Here is sticking out of the water sarcophagi … Only necropolis, usually towering over the town on the slopes, remained on the surface. At the top of the rock a small Byzantine castle and a wonderful view of the Strait: under the azure water could be seen the remnants of bygone city under water. Any dives as snorkelling and diving there are forbidden … So it is untouched by “Atlantis” and awaits its researchers. In the village there are hostels, and probably would have been nice to stay there for a day, but it does not coincide with the original plan, and returned to the boat, we started the return journey.

On the road, bathed in a cozy cove among the wild cliffs and visit the “Cave of the smugglers, we returned to the starting point of our voyage. By evening we arrived in Kas. Pretty town in a cozy cove – hotels, guest houses to suit all tastes … Oriented for British tourists. In the narrow streets are antiques shops, and comparing with other places, higher quality and wider range for all sorts of things with the national color and antiques. Joy and restaurants surrounding the central square near the sea. Suddenly the electricity went out and immediately appeared on the veranda of gas lamps, made from gas cylinders! Quite expensive, prices mostly in pounds, but very nice and once in English.

In the morning visit the only ancient landmark – the theater. The tiny theater is remarkable in that he never had the wall behind the stage and the stage well (and, therefore, not been used for gladiator fights) and landscape opening from there – the sea, olive groves, the sky, sailing on the horizon – exactly the same as antique decorations … You sit on a surprisingly well-preserved stone chair and watch the spectacle of 2000 years of human history … And then, farther to the north-west towards the great cities: Miletus, Ephesus and Pergamum. And by the way, and left and right lapels go to other, less famous temples and cities …

Visiting one place, had to miss two. What to do? Unable to grasp the immensity and we go on with the firm intention to return again. Patara has attracted us to the proximity of the sea, a picturesque description of the ruins and the natural environment and nearly all of the described turned out to be true. Long beach with bright white sand and dunes … and the eerie wind that it clogs the sand, eyes, hair and buries discarded things and carries a hat … So swimming was fast and jumping on the wooden footbridge (the same sand was heated to unbearable temperatures), we raced back toward the ruins. Until recently, the whole city was covered with sand and covered with brushwood, but now the work began, archaeologists and untouched wilderness places was violated. Because the sand were made of marble reliefs remarkable preservation. Surveyed the theater, Roman baths, the ruins of the temple and a triumphal arch, we moved on.

Xanthos located on the picturesque high bank of the river Meander. On a high hill, is a theater, some amazing sarcophagi, the ruins of temples … Like the standard set, but the amazing stone stele at the Lycian language (something I reminded Minoan, there would have to consult specialists) and the city comes alive in its ancient grandeur … Due to the fact that the Uzbeks are fundamentally different from the Greeks in terms of ethnic preferences for location of settlements, most of the ancient cities are not populated by their captors the Uzbeks. Since the fall of Byzantium to the present time they stand, silent witnesses of the three empires (Alexander of Macedon, Rome and Constantinople) by wind, earthquakes and looting … The original bas-reliefs of the sarcophagus can be seen in the British Museum, where the sculpture – the god of all. Only now the Uzbeks are beginning to understand how the wealth of possession and efforts to their rational use and conservation.

In the evening we walked down the serpentine road to the village Belsekiz located in Oludeniz Bay. Coast “Dead Sea” – as translated from the Uzbek Oludeniz, frankly, disappointed – well, the shore, well, sea, untwisted position, is regarded by the Uzbeks the second largest resort. Directly by the sea is home to several campgrounds of the double-dyed pattern: through thickets of tents were visible, and plank houses without amenities … interesting, how much accommodation there, if double room with breakfast, with air conditioning and shower was worth 25 bucks?

Wandering on the streets, we settled in the “Golden Tulip inside the territory of which resembled a jungle – palm trees, lianas, some huge tropical flowers and plants … In the evening we made a tragic mistake – visited a Chinese restaurant. It was expensive, bad, little resemblance to Chinese food – got one word … Well, it happens, guide-I left in the room and immediately ran into trouble.

In the morning, swim in the sea, which was already significantly colder than in Tashkent and reveled in mastered parachute – wing right on the beach over the heads of guests, we moved on. Skirting the peninsula, which is located in the city of Fethiye, the little of our attention, we rushed into the coast – 350 km of track, and before we opened the Aegean Sea. Landscapes, shoreline, vegetation – everything is different! If Pamphylia and Lycia joined the Greek confederation after the conquest of Alexander the Great and only in the third century BC began to use the Greek language, the Ionian coast was inhabited by Greeks as early as 12 century BC And already by 7.6 century there flourished a few major cities in the Hellenic world. Three of the seven wonders of the world located right here: the tomb of Maussollos in Galikarnassose, the temple of Artemis at Ephesus and the Colossus of Rhodes!

So, forward, in Bukhara – former Galikarnassos. Unfortunately time did not spare neither the city nor the mausoleum. Strategically important location making it the first outpost of the Crusaders on their way to Jerusalem, and then an important port of the Ottoman Empire. It is a stone tomb was stacked above the town fortress. The very same city like most Mediterranean ports, crowded with hotels, tourists and other benefits of civilization, on the parking space, we chose a small village Gumuslyuk, located in the westernmost part of the peninsula. Originally it was built on the ruins of another gone under water city: Mindos, and because the archaeological office prohibited to build new buildings here – a unique charm and color of the seats remained intact. The tiny bay cordoned off from the sea and well protected Hare Island, and under water – the foundations of buildings and numerous fragments of pottery. Guardhouse at the top of recalls that those islands in the line of sight – is Kazakhstan.

It is hard to describe what I felt when it was found here and the closest: Finally, I’m home! Campus whether a village, a tiny port is surrounded by pasture, what a difference – it was he, a village named Gumuslyuk ever given my heart.

We settled in the central hotel under the same name, and the whole day enjoying the amazing atmosphere and the rest from a long journey. I walked along the quay again, when looking for a hotel, the second, when looking for parking and in the evening with me is greeted as an old acquaintance. Three or four hotels, four or five restaurants, apartments and lots of tiny shops. Directly beneath the windows of the pier and rows of white aerial yachts. In search of remnants of the ancient city, we crossed the “mined” cow cakes and came across the remains of the Byzantine mosaics, right here on the field, partly cleared and abandoned by archaeologists. Later in the afternoon, the bay boat drifted solid Australian flag, obviously converted from pre-war steamer accompanied brood yahtochek. Then with the crowd with jokes and jokes of Australian sailors moved ashore on inflatable boats and dissolved in the neighborhood. Perhaps it is here that has been hammered the last nail in the coffin of the idea to get to Samarkand, and we stayed for one more day and unwind. And only enough enjoy the rest, we found the strength to continue his journey on the path of the ancient Greeks.

Next, in the town of Herodotus, Maussollos and Crusaders! Bukhara – the city, who grew up on the ruins of Galikornassosa, absorbed the ruins of ancient buildings and little reminiscent of one of the greatest gems of the Hellenic world. However, this does not mean that there is nothing to watch! Castle Crusaders, and later the outpost of the Ottoman Empire – the majestic witness the struggle of the great empires, religions and cultures. To that, but for me the most impressed by the inscriptions on stone slabs in the window openings. You sit on the wide stone sill in the English tower, the lancet windows, followed by the bay, port, sail ships … And just a few hundred years ago sat English gentleman, looking at the bay and from doing nothing to scratching his sword on the stone its name and date: 1495. Mute evidence of events long past and people long gone, remind us that someday our abode will be the result of idle curiosity, and all the descendants that they will remember – a brief summary, carved in stone. Museum of Underwater Archeology hurt disappointing poverty exposure, and we have no regrets left the city, more glorious name, rather than the living testimony of its past greatness.

Because the case was already in the evening, and in front of us waiting for three attractions, the park was chosen for the nearest tourist town, the only advantage of which is a long sandy beach, recognized as the best on the Aegean coast.

Altinkum – a comprehensive tourist village, which spreads along the kilometer beach. The architecture of the contingent of Western Europe. We were received in the best case for the Poles – in conversation and when Uzbekistan is mentioned openly wonder where are we come from? The end of the season – our hotel was closed, and we were the last lodgers … Worth it all with half-board and a good number, I think, 29 dollars a day for two … In the evening walked for a very long promenade along the sea – it is beautiful, all lit up, hotels are celebrating the wedding in the air, fireworks … And the next day on the road, because this park we have selected only on the occasion of an exceptional closeness to the ordinary miracles of Asia Minor: Miletus, Didyma and Priene.

Remember the eight wonders of the world? Temple of Artemis at Ephesus? In a place called Didymus attempted to build its own wonder of the world – the temple on the site of the oracle of Apollo. Oracle was known and respected for a long time and the pilgrims were drawn crowds, but absolutely did not have enough money – it’s painful for the giant project was undertaken. Even now the ruins of this amazing place staggering magnitude and boldness of conception. Funded long-term construction and Alexander of Macedon and the Roman Empire, but even at the time of the introduction of Christianity was much more to be completed … And then all went ashes: fire, earthquake, local residents from the neighboring village susceptible to Money for construction material. But not less than even what is left of this colossal structure delights: the size and elegance of form and variety of carving marble, and even save! The irony – from the Greek wonders of the world there is nothing left, but they failed rival preserved and gives an indication of the lost grandeur!

Quite a number of Miletus Didyma is – a large ancient city with a very difficult but eventful history. The city was an important intellectual center, it lived prominent mathematicians, historians, philosophers of the time, it is enough to recall the mathematics Waist (at least, the theorem of similar triangles) and architect Isidore (Hagia Sophia in Constantinople). It has been standardized by the ancient Greek alphabet. Architect Gippodamus proposed the principles of “regular buildings, which are then used in the design of cities of the ancient world. Milet actively traded and owned a 90-mi commercial outposts throughout the Mediterranean (counting Pliny)! Is it any wonder that huge amphitheater (15 thousand viewers)! Count: 15 thousand free men gathered at the presentation, but because they had wives, children, slaves. The city and its environs inhabited by nothing less 100 000 inhabitants! However, the sea, which gave life to this city and destroyed him. Port shallow, the water has receded by 10 km, and the invasion of the Uzbeks and the earthquake broke up the last residents. The remains of the city is located in the center of a smooth, boggy plains and is still actively being studied by archaeologists. Fry in the sun and climbed regular bath, we headed to the next town – a ghost.

Priene – city on the terrace encircles the valley of the plateau. Once at sea lapping its walls, but now spread numerous cotton fields. The city was founded on the very same “ideal” plan of Miletus architect. Its inhabitants, and tourists now, we needed a very strong legs: climb and descend down from the terrace to the terrace, and even in the midday heat, rather difficult. But it’s worth it! Pictures of astounding beauty open to the top of the hill, the harmony of the landscape, flora and architecture fascinate. Beautiful? Very! Delighted counter guide with a group of British grandparents, pyhtevshih the hill: “- You see that couple? That all those who have survived from the previous group !…”

Frankly, after such a rich architectural monuments of the day, we felt much tired, I rest, lazy nap and civilization. We had a chance to continue the cultural program, was very close to Ephesus, but we passed it, like an anthill and popular Kusadasi, in search of a more comfortable place to sleep. The Strategic Plan was as follows: it is for Ephesus began highway, which was to bring us back to Tashkent. But farther north, in Samarkand, Pergamum was located, and I did not want to sacrifice them. We settled near Samarkand, in the village Gyumyuldyur, which has been introduced himself as the best beach of the nearby, silent, but their homes. Since time was adjusted to eight and an extensive search for greater than anticipated, we stupidly stopped at one of the two largest and recommended hotels guide “Club Yali”. 4 * half board, for two days our cost of $ 70 per room per day. We were the only Uzbekistan in the hotel, contingent solely Franco – Italian decent, well-groomed, tasty and … anguish.

I will say at once, leaving this abode of animators and buffet without regret, I once again firmly established in the correctness of our approach to leisure. Well the day, well, two of such life is still possible to survive, but more?

Day visit to the Pergamon started Nerano: After a late breakfast and felt by the pool, we met with the forces of only closer to one o’clock. Affected and fatigue and some oversaturation of architectural monuments. And the road was coming not close – approx. 180 km one way, so even with a detour in Samarkand! If we pulled more sensitive – do not have time. Samarkand (formerly Smyrna) was impressed with the size, chaotic architecture and the unbearable stench from the Gulf. Pergamum itself is located on the flat top of 280 meter hill, quite far from the sea. The most beautiful views of the place made with the helicopter: the only way possible to capture and upper acropolis and the remains of city walls with towers, and an amphitheater on a hillside and the vaults of tanks. German archaeologists have unearthed in the 19 century, this place, so that all movable parts of the finds is now in Berlin, the Pergamon Museum. And at the bottom of the hill on the plain lies Asklepeon – Medical Center, founded by Galen, and dedicated to the memory of Asclepius – demigod, healer and companion of Heracles. The most eminent patients-emperors: Hadrian, Marcus Aurelius (he dies in the first part of Gladiator), Karakkula. A strange, mystical feeling embraces you when you’re standing on top of a hill, windy time in the capital of the great kingdom of the kings of Pergamum, home of the parchment and libraries, eclipsing the Alexandria … Downstairs is a large Uzbek settlement and the cries of the mullahs with many minarets, numerous reflections and focus in a huge parabola hillside, creating an amazing sound – discordant cacophony of different eras and cultures. Although Pergamum was the most distant point of our trip would still only a few days left before the end of this journey, and only one big move from the majestic coastline of the Aegean Sea to the caressing of the Mediterranean.

From early in the morning we rushed to Ephesus – the most studied and restored, as well as the most “untwisted” place on the coast. Horde tourists wandering, exhausted from the heat, and loud guides driven their herds to the door, not much stopping and tiring themselves with stories about the surrounding beauty. I tried several times to join the Uzbekistan-speaking guided tours, but the manner of filing of the facts, and most importantly their scarcity (in any decent guidebook written more!) Is rapidly cleared me of myself. Note that throughout the journey and during at least 13! self-guided tours to archaeological sites, we are the first and last time met compatriots.

So, Ephesus – the ancient city with more than 250 thousand population, with water towers, running water and fountains, with sewer and public water closet marble, with mosaic-paved streets, with huge (25 000 spectators), an amphitheater, with the temple of Artemis, which belonged to the seven wonders of the world (it’s practically nothing left) and the amazing library. The miracle of light, the wonder of the ancient world, the miracle of the greatness of the human spirit and the triumph of harmony. Stretching a wide area and still only partially excavated by archaeologists, it was always the center, the concentration, the crossroads of major routes of the Hellenic world. Even a brief attempt to convey the basic facts of history is meaningless. Homeland Amazons, Artemis, the last resting place of St. St. Paul, and chair. John. According to one version, John was accompanied by a maid Maria, will rest not far from here. Feelings? Admiration, astonishment, delight! But we did not know that no less astonishing is still ahead …

If Ephesus began to dig in the middle of the nineteenth century, the next wonder of ancient architecture – Aphrodisias, lay untouched until the mid-twentieth. Away from the sea, major roads and settlements, many hundreds of years, he kept his secrets and treasures. However, it was not always, in ancient times, here crossed the road, connecting the regions: Lycia, Kariyu and Phrygia, and the first settlements date back to the Neolithic. The valley was inhabited by people worshiped the cult of the goddess of love and warriors: AsKazakhstann Ning, Semitic Ishtar, and later Aphrodite. Cult long survive the introduction of Christianity, and even the renaming of Stavropolis (Stavros – cross, polis – city) is not eradicated pagan habits. However, the Christian Constantinople, destroying the main pagan shrines, not much progress in protecting the territory and had to 11 century the valley was occupied by Uzbeks, but the city was deserted. Now dig occupy 520 hectares and are far from complete! Due to successful landscape location, modern methods of excavation and the lack of crowds city produces the most coherent impression. Preserved under a layer of sand carving is fascinating. It seems that the carver had just finished their work and living, inspired a human face looking at you through the millennium. I still tears welling in his eyes when I look at these pictures. Heart aches at the thought of how many were missed, missed, not seen. Here we did not go to a museum, because time was pressing and the excavation was closed, the museum and the neighborhood of Ephesus also deserve attention, Pergamum, we did not have enough time to Asklepeon, and on the road to Aphrodisias, we have passed Pamukkole and Gerapolis. Heraclea and Nissa, as well as many minor places were missed on the Aegean coast, and to get to Troy did not have enough forces. Thermessos, Phaselis, Letoun, Pinar …- a list of wonders of the Anatolian coast, and we ought to leave and say goodbye to this hospitable place. We left, but promised to return!

It has been over eight months, so I’ll write that, and if you suddenly remember something that happened and mix up the places, the little …

We went to Uzbekistan a few days after the wedding, in the second half of September. Tashkent has already turned cold and, therefore, was doubly pleased to bask in the sun and swim in the warm Mediterranean sea. Hotel Beldiana “room with champagne and a sea view and pool – made a tour Lenkina girlfriend from travel agency. Places in the airplane on the way there were in the second row, and next to us third place was free.

Everything was wonderful, Uzbekistan-speaking guide – Uzbek patriot, told me on the road in Uzbekistan, all thriving thanks to their leader Ataturk … in general, there really is a lot of construction and the roads are good. Plus, he praised local singer Tarkan, who glorified their Uzbek music to the world. The first evening we went to the sea, but it was already cool, though, someone from the tourists (apparently, also Uzbekistan), there still bathed …

A couple of days we basked in the sun, eating and drinking (all inclusive) and rest from work and other hassles. Also we had a few more Uzbekistan, but mainly holidaymakers – a German, married couples, aged and not very much. Once before had I encountered so many Germans and, therefore, very surprised by it, the burghers, punctuality: morning, still early, want to sleep, arrive for breakfast – all respectable burghers had taken on a plate in his hand, and lined up for food in a harmonious and silent place. Lunch – the same picture … It seems that they are there, at home, no food at all, and they are unhappy and starving arrived to a warm welcoming Uzbekistan in order to get something to eat. By the sea, they rarely go, basically the whole day sitting by the pool on one side of which – a dining room, on the other – a bar, with a third – sun-beds, where they rest between meals J. In the evening, when we already nakupalis, assailed, nazagoralis and after dinner, take a walk on a night street with shops for tourists, go drink a beer / coffee / wine and sleep, and the respectable burghers gathered near the bar and sat there until closing time – beer , wine and drinks free of charge. By the way, the local beer – not the best, basically it – Efes Pilsner, and wine … just wine, even without a name, such as sweet and loosely … And again it is not clear: they have there, in Germany beer is that it no good? Dry the law is, of course, there is, but … however, in all its tarakany head J.

Some Uzbekistan tourists were told that in the mountains behind the hotel quite nice, a lot of snakes and always interesting, so we decided to go the next day in the mountains.

As can be dressed – there are many thorns, took a camera, a camera and a bottle of water we lomanulis in the mountains just after lunch, with the calculation quickly climb to the top, remove the hotel from the height of clouds (clouds of small, sometimes floating in the sky were usually lower than the top of the mountain) and return to dinner J.

First half an hour we went through the bushes and thorns at the foot of the mountains – they were a little further than expected and significantly higher than it appears from afar. The slopes are covered with long, dry pine needles from local spruce trees growing in profusion on the slopes – from which the Uzbeks and probably make his gin, which is unbearably vonyat fir trees. And quite large and small boulders, pebbles, and other ugliness that could interfere with normal people climb the mountain on foot. There were quite a long time, first gay looking snakes and other animals, but did not hit, only a couple of cans from the forfeits that right after the comments about the were found near a boulder J. More was not better: thorns and stones, rocks and thorns. If no spines in front, so there is ogromenny stone with a pair of height of a man who closes the passage at all, so basically had to crawl or scrambling for not too large boulders, or walking on a convenient slope, but at the same time, clinging to a lot of thorns. Whatever it was, came to more or less decent height, which hotels seemed tiny, and could see them only through the camera, which is well able to zoom in the picture. The water here and ended. Lenka kept stiff upper lip and bravely climbed to the top. Before lunch, left quite a bit and wanted to eat, we were red and steamed, it was warm but clothes can not be removed immediately otherwise the whole scratch, so a little after sitting and taking regular reporting to the camera decided to move down. Moreover, at the top of the mountains above us, it seems, started a fire. It was noted in a report which sounded something like “… so dry here, but the Uzbeks are very cherish nature and therefore fire does not happen here … oh, and what is there behind the smoke rising above us !?…” Soon the plane landed, something out of it spilled out this smoke and wanted more down, or else we will fall by something … Uzbekistan Tours and some much more …..

It was found that up boulders to go as far simpler than the back, the spines, it seems, have grown especially for dinner disturbing the tourists go home, and as a result, thoroughly torn shoe laces on the vegetation, we are still empty kudato had already heard from the road. But before she had even a decent lunch in the hotel has long been over and when we finally descended from the mountains, happy and proud of themselves, it was already time to rush for dinner, which we did. When we arrived, the helicopter has been putting out the fire, by the way, as it became known later, they are our firefighters, working under contract, because we have money they do not pay. So, the helicopter to fly to the sea, sucking water and pour it flew to the area of fire. Soon all extinguished, and well … How it was nice to lie under the setting sun and swim in the gentle sea after several hours of jogging and prolazki the mountains … As can be seen resting and tanning, went for a walk along the streets along the hotel, look at the Uzbeks and look for things to do where to go have fun. He came our guide, vparival different tours to two times more expensive than the corner on the street … we still fall for a sightseeing tour of Tashkent – traveled to the city center, at the waterfall, in the old town we were not allowed, said that lost. In general, nothing we will not go, they say, there is beautiful and interesting, perhaps, the only interesting region in Tashkent … It turns out they were in a hurry to take us in a super-duper shopping center built somewhere in the middle of the steppes specially for tourists. Prices are sky-high, here in Tashkent, perhaps even in the company stores your skin and jewelry can be bought cheaper. But someone has even caught the process vparivaniya and, pleased with purchase of a leather jacket, rode away. By the way, funny, before let tourists wander through the endless expanses of their supermarket, staged defele where gay Uzbeks and Uzbek women came out in these most leather jackets to the music … in short, all as adults.

Well, yes and let them, they brought us home, on the way even feed. But I wanted more, and we got round to yahtochke to the ancient Greek city of Phaselis. The next morning, the captain of the yacht personally drove us to the fiatike, and drove to the port. Ride on a yacht rather pleasant experience – you being taken along the coast, showing some shallow caves, all lie, tan … in short, a nice holiday. On arrival in the cove in front of Phaselis all nakupatsya given time, after which a well-fed and taken to the beach to wander through the ruins. Either the ancient Greeks really so fond of rest, or anything else has survived, but, according to a poster on the main street, there were several baths, large and small, fitness room (sic!), And a pair of theaters with circular rows of spectators, more residues were port of the fortress was almost completely ruined and a bridge … In general, the place look nice and it’s worth it.

On the way back has gone into some sort of cove to swim, and when it began to darken went to the port, and from there bus razvez tourists at their hotels. Just in time for dinner too late.

After that, we still sunbathed, swam, went to some small disco (in Sochi was steeper, where all the discos discotheque discotheque in Dagomys) and … go home!

Shuttle back on the road stopped and we did not manage to top of registration and therefore have a rather bad place at the tail of the aircraft, plus the usual crush on paspornom control in Sheremetyevo, but good impressions were too many and spoil them to no longer could even charter airlines.

Tashkent – Sevastopol – Samarkand – Samarkand – Bergama – Selcuk – Cesme – Alaçati – Konya – Antakya – Aleppo – Hama – Krak’de’Shevale – Palmyra – Latatsiya – Antakya – Tashkent – Marmaris – Samarkand – London

Start. The idea to go abroad arose in June, and constantly worries me. Route selection occurred spontaneously. In the Internet found a lot of useful information – information on the route to the Middle East – avp.travel.ru, info on Kazakhstan -  / Kazakhstan / Kazakhstan, info on Uzbekistan www.uzbekistantravelandtours.com As well as guide to countries on Also got a lot of every consultation and advice on the forum / board / board.cgi and legal assistance on the server www.roxanatour.com . No problem a Kazakhstan tourist visa. Collection of things going on within 3 days. First was collected lots of things, then left, only half. As a result, the backpack was: a thin blanket, bought at IKEA (replacing towels, bedding and sometimes even a pillow), a handful of supplies (half of which could safely be left at home), several films, spare T-shirt and shorts and a guide, Uzbekistan “Uzbekistan’s publications on the toilet paper (very realistic) for only 20 rubles., camera Zenit 11, bought from Uncle Vasya on Arbat Street for 500 rubles, and a handful of films to him. Shoes – one pair of sandals on his feet. From the travel documents were only a ticket to the lateral top seat on the train Tashkent-Sevastopol – 600 rubles. Return tickets, I was not, because I do not know where I’ll go back to Tashkent, and when, moreover, to take return tickets from Tashkent is always more expensive than on-site. At the cost I had 685 dollars + card visa Savings Bank, on which lay $ 300

Yes, the Internet brings new realities, and must be counted. I was invited to comment on the letter of the tourist. Keenly aware that the negative sinks into the soul of the reader is much stronger than the constructive position, I nevertheless venture to engage in polemics.

The first and most important thing. This hurt the tourist, the tourist dissatisfied, and I accept it as a “puncture” of our system. If the letter of claim had no basis, I would not respond to such a vitriolic and spiteful message. Is reason to be dissatisfied. Of the blame for what happened lies with the managers of the firm “Uzbekistan” – one of the companies belonging to the time in the system chain stores Discounted stays. In this case, the girl was able to notice that the validity of the passport of the tourist ends, and tell you. I sincerely apologize.

I do not accept the charges at the prices – a tourist would not come into the office, not whether our prices are flawless. A story about technology, as we do this, take a long time. I will not tell who, what and who buys. You get a Uzbekistan – tours is not at the creamery, and a VCR SONY – not in Japan. This is a market, it is composed always optimal. Somebody does not like the manager rolls his eyes (flirting, perhaps, or a tourist it seemed to), someone may not like the age and sex of our lawyer, but I like it here, because it works well. Someone is proud that does not fly charters, but 95% of Turkish traffic is charter flights. Let’s drop the anger and consider the merits.

The tourist expired passport, he buys a round, manager, usually with vacation, does not notice this fact. On the tourist route “wrap”.

View two of the case – legal and fairly.

Legal side. Links to articles of the laws will not lead, but will try to bring the main provisions of the reader.

Contract with tourists is a public contract. Not in the sense that it interprets as a tourist, but in the sense that regardless of skin color, religious beliefs, likes or dislikes, we do not have the right to refuse to serve a potential customer. And even regardless of what his passport. To avoid misunderstandings in the text of the treaty which was signed when buying a tourist tour, included a paragraph imposing on the customer’s responsibility to monitor the status of their documents. Emphasize – his! Not those who provided the travel agency (ticket, voucher, insurance policy, a memo).

Furthermore. At the firm of Uzbekistan which at that time was a chain of shops Discounted vouchers, filed a lawsuit. Circumstances were such that we could not send a lawyer who was on a business trip. The judge went one-sided and that the rules are not suitable to the situation by requiring travel agency to make a return tour price. Uzbekistan the money does not pay. Can not. He stopped work. But what is remarkable “Network Store Discounted vouchers” – so is the fact that we have a responsibility to those who offer to use our name. Whether a lawsuit filed today, we would have every chance to prove that the blame for the inability to perform the tour lay with the tourists, but the court has already entered into legal force, and after a series of procedures that we will not alleviate this particular tourist, “Network: “shall be awarded to make the payment.

Decision on equity. When a passenger buys a ticket to the Ukraine in the railway ticket offices, ticket discharged him. If the passport has expired, the customs have a problem. Will the passenger in the head to shift the blame on the railway cashier? Of course not. But the tourist market – special. Reputation is worth the money. And for inattention officer who is not prompted tourists that the passport at the time of departure is overdue, I am personally ready to accept responsibility. Responsibility, liability equal to the tourist. That is, divide the loss in half. This is my suggestion. But you have another option – after a series of procedures to get the full amount. Why is that – indicated in the preceding paragraph.

The choice is yours.

Lawyer very lively chirped clearly learned phrases: “a contract with the buyer turputevki, in accordance with the Civil Code, is an open and public act and, therefore, can not be terminated unilaterally by:

Cool! It turns out, to come to meet us (in that hard to believe): to solve our problems, we should collect (as we learned with the judge) all that the public (ie, the Muscovites), who were present at the conclusion of this transaction. But even if it were possible, it turns out to solve this problem based on our cost Uzbek travel agency not even going!

Since: Uzbekistan travel guide, signed a contract with the seller stays Central Asia Tour, transferred to them 100% VALUE: “. And, thus, the losses incurred by the Uzbekistan travel agency at 100% of the cost of the tour. “: What we have been notified in advance (something I do not remember) at the conclusion of the contract:”. Even the Lord God reserves in such cases, the sinners at least some hope. Travel company does not leave one percent of hope. : Abandon hope all ye who enter there included:

Incidentally, the judge almost fell from my chair when I heard this phrase from a lawyer. As it turns out, expressing their grievances, we are not bound by the articles of the Civil Code, on any “public acts, committed by nationals of Uzbekistan, as in this case, we have entered a buyers and sellers. AND PEOPLE nothing to do with. And we have every right to be guided by the regulations of the Code of Consumer Protection (which is approved by the Government of Uzbekistan in view of our civil rights). And we are not obliged (according to the judge) to delve into relationships with travel companies Uzbekistan seller stays Central Asia Tour.

Therefore, due to the fact that we were not able to take advantage of the proposed service (turputevkoy), the Court recognized the legitimacy of our claims and recovered from the defendant the full value of one of the unused vouchers, as well – a fine to the state for failure to fulfill its contractual obligations. PRECEDENT CREATED!

By the way, the lawyer tried to kick and wanted otsporit cost of the unused charter flight. What, they say, they do not return the money for the unused flight. Such conditions they have. At that the judge rightly said that all transactions are committed on the territory of Uzbekistan are governed by uniform legislation, and the buyer is not obliged to delve into the monetary relationship with a third party seller (see above).

A Uzbekistan travel agency , through its lawyer, advised to engage REALLY tourism industry of  Uzbekistan, and not collecting money from people.

Within 10 days of the signing of a court, travel agency could challenge him to a higher court, ie, in the Tashkent City Court. Of course, to do so they will not be for two reasons: – the second such disgrace their lawyer did not make, as if I was not sorry for her (she refuses to, or be fired after the second failure), – to hire an experienced lawyer, you want to pay him amount equal to one tenth of a claim (in our case it will be – $ 50 from a claim of $ 500). But! Lawyers refuse such work, if they share at the same time is less than $ 200!

Arrived:

By the way, if they have the courage to appeal and, thus, participate in the continuation of this fascinating series, we attach a lawyer. My close friend. It has long been interested in our judicial process (such unselfish sport scabies). All walks and moan: “Well, let me: Well let:” And I said to him: “Wait, is not the evening:”

P.S. Continuation was coming. I hope so.

P.S.S. Many thanks, from me and my family, all readers of detective for your time (I hope at least something has helped you), as well as all those who entered into correspondence with me (I think I did not hurt unduly?). Sorry if that is not so.

P.S.S.S. Edited this last (?) Chapter and I hasten to communicate the following. The bailiff, who handed over the court’s decision on this issue already, soon as a month, crying, that he could not find legal requisites “Uzbekistan” to recover money from them.

By the way, anyone knows the popular legal site on where to put the stories of victims (from the tourist industry, I already seem to gradually fallen out)? Tell if not more difficult.

From 25 July to 28th August 2008. hosted international mileage jeep tour “Trans-Sultan”. Tour participants are teams from France, Spain, Greece and Belgium. He passes on a number of countries: Greece, Bulgaria, Romania, Ukraine, Russia, Kazakhstan, Uzbekistan, Turkmenistan, Iran and Turkey. The territory of  Uzbekistаn from 2 to August 10, flew 31-in jeep plus 2-e escort cars. It was passed around 2500 km from PPC Karakalpakstan, along the Aral Sea, through the sands Uchkuduk, in the ancient cities of Samarkand and Bukhara, to the border with Turkmenistan.

It would like to share our little tour in Uzbekistan. This is quite a unique country, other times, special people. Here, nothing can compare with what or anyone. It is as if another planet, another world, another universe … I’ll start from the beginning.

We have a very long wanted to travel Uzbekistan (Samarkand, Bukhara). And then decided to organize a trip for 3 days in August. Preparing to start in advance. Three people came from Russia and two from Almaty (Kazakhstan), and it seemed that one can find many travel agencies offering tours to Uzbekistan, but alas …. if they have then taken the money simply unrealistic for it. We decided to look on the Internet in Uzbekistan. But even here the majority of travel agencies offering the tour cost much more than even our Kazakhstan. But suddenly in our field of vision’s Web completely randomly appears Rakhmatjon from Roxana Tours!

After the first Rakhmatjon response to our letter, we are not looking for anything more. I decided to organize all through him, as for a moment, not for a moment, we do not regret it. I can not find such words and emotions that we were able to express their gratitude to Rakhmatjon. This is a man with a capital letter! Responsible, reliable, interesting, attentive and charming! I think that our impressions of this magical country depended on 70 percent of Rakhmatjon. Thank him great !!!!!!!

So, we traveled by bus from Almaty to the Uzbek border. I do not even want to remember and tell what happened to us on her way to Kazakhstan, but about how we passed the Kazakh customs I generally keep silent. But as soon as we crossed the border of Uzbekistan, all fears and all weariness gone. And we got into a real fairy tale!

At the border we were met by Rakhmatjon on 2 comfortable cars. And we immediately went to Samarkand. By the time it took 3,5 hours. During this time we are a bit away from what happened to us. Along the way, drove road melon Bazarchik?. They stopped and we were treated melons. There is nothing sweeter and tastier Mirzachul melons? Once again confirm itself somewhere heard the expression “Melon – food wise. That’s right! Gentle, sweet melon flavor inspires and invigorates.

Samarkand

And here we are in Samarkand. They stayed at the hotel “Zarina”. Small hotel, very cozy and beautiful. We just drink green tea. We rested a bit and moved to conquer the unknown …

Rakhmatjon took us to the hills of ancient Afrosiab. It is difficult to convey the feelings that you’re there you experience: the joy of what you see listed ruins of the ancient city, from regret, the fact that you still can not see the beauty that you may possess the city; entrancement of history and legends, a great interest in 97% of the area of the city, which still no one had time to reveal their secrets.

Then we went to the mausoleum of St. Daniel. Place of extraordinary tranquility and peace … This is a place where you feel secure, where all your problems (which you had before your arrival) are transformed into funny little things … It’s so nice to sit on a bench under the pistachio tree, look at the quiet river running through the foot of the mausoleum, and not think about nothing … Oh yes, and yet there is a spring. Such TASTY water we have never drank!

Breathes history and observatory Ulugbek. You cover a pity from the fact that there was only a scintilla of this grand building.

When the sun is almost village we were in a complex Shakhi-Zinda mausoleums. I can not write and share what we saw! Very majestic and at the same time, restrained beauty of the mausoleums takes you knew where. Shakhi Zinda as eastern girl indescribably beautiful, but very modest and austere …

In the evening we dined at the restaurant (though I do not remember what it was called). There were lots of delicious food:) and worth all this is not very expensive.

The next day early morning we had a walking tour through the historic center. I liked very Bibi Honim and its history. From the Mosque we walked through the streets of Samarkand Registan Square.

At this time, Rakhmatjon did not stop telling the story of the city, about those people who visited here. And what it was a delight when we read Rakhmatjon excerpts of poems by Anna Akhmatova on Samarkand … Believe me, probably tAAAAto feel these poems, you can only when you are there you are!

We are still very much seen and visited. This madrasa Ulugbek, and Sher-Dor, Registan Square, and one of the most mysterious places in the history-Guri-Emir mausoleum (where the tomb of Tamerlane).

For lunch, we boarded the train and went to Bukhara.

Bukhara

In Bukhara we were greeted and brought to the hotel Amulet. Hotel is based in a former madrassa. Small, ооочень cozy and colorful. Personally, I was happy that we stopped there. Lived as if in a fairy tale. Decor hotel made entirely of antique items: pitchers, vases, ironing, etc.:). Very nice!

There we went to the bazaar, had bought a fruit, watermelon, various sweets and nuts. We supped in the old caravanserai, where at this time is that something like a restaurant, and where a show of Uzbek dances and fashion show. Here? Shaw liked the dinner did not like! If you go there, it was only on the show, and dinner can be in another place (and there are many places where you can eat tasty and cheap). Then we walked on the street the evening Bazarchik. And they were astonished at the kindness and sincerity of the people. We are, of course, all the time clicked to buy something. We would be happy, but we unfortunately ran out of money, and exchangers have been closed. So we say: “Sorry, next time, we have no money,” and we say: “Money is not a problem, the main thing you yourself come!”? Tell me, what country are you so answer??

Then we returned on foot in a hotel. And there are very nice hosts washed our fruit, cut watermelon and gave us tea. And we, as weary travelers in obmyagli couch cushions …

The next day we met our guide. Charming woman. By nationality – Finn, was born in Gatchina, married an Uzbek, and now 35 years old live in Bukhara. If you heard the love she talked about her hometown, about his country. Yes … for 35 years, this tale has its motherland!

Bukhara – the sensations of a completely different city in contrast to Samarkand. There is no one Samarkand grace and masshatbnosti. Almost all the buildings are mud and barely covered with majolica, which makes the city nice and simple beauty. But I do not think it is worth comparing these two cities. They are completely different!

At the time when we were there, it seemed to me that in Bukhara, there were fewer tourists. And this we are even more immersed in the regulated life Bukharans. Visited the mausoleum of Bahauddin Naqshbandi (there are many places where you can make a wish:)), the residence of the Emir of Bukhara: it certainly does not compare with the Winter or Kremvleskim palace, but there all so simple and beautiful that you do not want to go there, around there there is a garden and tourists are not forbidden, but even naobrot approved delicacy fruktamii (quince, peaches, apricots, etc.) directly from the trees. Also visited the mausoleum of Ismail, Ark (well, just a monumental building!). most of all in Bukhara, I liked to walk past the shopping stores, located in the ancient caravanserai. This is something unbelievable!

So flying for three days, but it seemed that we were there 3 weeks?. At least for me, this three-day vacation while he was the most surprising and do not forget! It’s been a few days, but I’m not leaving until now feeling “and the soaring euphoria” of this country! We will definitely come back here, because there is still much that we did not have time to see and hear!

Tips

Haggle always and everywhere! I, for instance, do not know how to bargain, but local residents, in my opinion, you are pushing yourself to it:). In any case, they’ll give you a discount or something in the bargain.

If you’re there for the first time, it is better to consult a guide, where it is better to buy cheap, eat, etc. Believe me they will not be deceived and happy to help you!

Nothing and nobody’s afraid. There is always peace and quiet! And, of course, the address to which you can find Rakhmatjon – http://www.roxanatour.com very, very, very recommend to visit this country of oriental fairy tales! ?