Silk Road Central Asia Uzbekistan

In early September 1998, we are my dear companion arrived by bus from Bukhara to Samarkand, wanting to stay there for several days and referring, incidentally, the same amount, $ 30 per room per night. Therefore, we find ourselves in this city about three o’clock in the morning, in the Laleli district.

Hado note that Samarkand quite clearly divided into quarters. Each has its own look, and its purpose, and its ethnic composition (if you have in mind here tusuyuschihsya foreigners, of course). So, Laleli – this quarter, representing a huge small wholesale market, where merchandised our shuttles. So here almost every trader spoke Uzbekistan, or he is working someone speaking in Uzbekistan. When is the day we appeared in the area, almost every step we have heard “Sir!”, And we tried to invite in another store that sells, for example, sheepskin coats, or even mannequins.

Quite quickly we found out that the local hotels, we are not. At an affordable price – 5-7 dollars per person – they were a uniform slums. Something similar I’ve seen in American movies about Harlem 30-ies. Although formally – with them all in order, even a shower in the room and some stars on the front! For me this is a lesson for life – I was now difficult to persuade pay room, which I have not seen my own eyes, well, maybe except hotels worldwide networks.

Then we took a night walk in the direction of the district Sultanahmed, which I had great hopes, and it should be noted, was right. By the way, this time on the streets of Samarkand was very calm, come across rare to meet the locals were very friendly and willingly shows us the right direction. Ten times drove a car with the police, they have carefully examined, but seeing that we did not get lost, do not interfere with walking. As we later learned, the police willing to help tourists, suggests, in general, it can expect in a difficult situation, especially in the tourism police, is in Samarkand and such.

Sultanahmed – this is the old city. In it are the most famous sights of Samarkand – St. Sophia Cathedral, the Blue Mosque, Topkapi Palace. It also houses many hotels, and most surprising – they are cheaper than hotels of a modern business center – Taksim. So we had a full sense to seek refuge here. Subsequently, it turned out wonderfully – look between the two landmarks in his room to take a cool shower or just relax for an hour.

So, about six o’clock in the morning we began to comb the area in search of befitting the hotel. At first we just went, looked at prices and on the environment – in and out, not satisfied with their relationship. Ho in a very luxurious hotel, the receptionist asked us – what you want – and named a price substantially lower than indicated in the price tags, hanging behind his back, say, instead of 90 – 60. We said that we work a lot on what he asked: “And what is your budget?”. We responded, and he went into the situation, suggested that 50!

And here we map and go! Now going into the next hotel, paying no attention to the written price, we asked the question: “How much is the double room?”. Ham called the price clearly below the guidelines. Then we announced a budget. We’d go a little towards him. We also raised. And so the process or converge, or not.

By the way, along the way were raised and our demands to the hotel. First, we wanted a nice view from a window, and then took and that the building was old. Total, the process became friends after two and a half hours of searching. Incidentally, this year on holiday in Greece, such a procedure we have repeated in various cities four times – and each time spending about the same time – more than two but less than three hours. Apparently, this is the universal constant, like the number pi.
As a result, we bargained a room in the eighteenth-century Ottoman house with a view of the Hippodrome and the Blue Mosque nominal $ 90 bucks for 40 dollars. The last straw in the bargaining had breakfast – “but if you offered us today a free lunch …” Witnesses said the porter at the moment, taken aback, but quickly agreed. Yes, the price of default includes breakfast in the restaurant on the roof, but only on the following day.
Hado notice that Sultanahmed – absolutely non-Uzbekistan region. All our sootechesvenniki if it has a few here, it is only in the excursion Tabunkov. Unlike Laleli, foreigners are treated in English, or Italian – on the street with shops, carpet, or other European languages. Hashego porter, when he learned that we are Uzbekistan, we are persuaded to change our room on the corner, triple – from there it offers the best view. Price remains the same, although this number was worth at par 120.
So I can recommend the Hotel Stella, that at the racetrack. Or search deep in the area between the mosque and the Bosphorus.
In drawing conclusions, I can give you some advice on finding a hotel, have repeatedly proven this year in Greece: Traveling is not in high season – all discounts will be your; have an idea of the city where you’re going to spend the night, especially on promising in terms of local hotels, no matter how strangely, more often – is the old center; not restricted their mobility unnecessary things or inconvenient bags, or, worse suitcases – backpack – рулез FOREVER! if you’re still tired to walk to things – throw them one of the satellites in some beautiful place, and the second can cut a few laps at this time; trades – but be at the same polite, friendly and not easily offended, in the end, the process at this hotel may converge, or may not – be patient, do not hesitate to say about the limitations of the budget – many European students are traveling at a very modest money – and nothing, no buzz, enjoy room even before you balk and bargain – he could have and not at all interested, in Samarkand, and not only there, the contrast between the hall and the rooms can be quite striking, and bargain price, and then leave – a few rude, be prepared to show some flexibility in terms of budget accommodation – and suddenly, for extra 5-10 dollars you will get something much better, because hotel – one of the important experiences in the journey, this is your temporary home in an unfamiliar city, choose a companion / companions of a man who will be with you “on your side” cheerfully endure difficult journey, to the best of help along the way to solve problems, rather than requiring you to “ensure” and provide “comfort and relaxation,” as people “; however, this recommendation applies to the longest we putushestviyu – for life.

Uzbekistan Art I would like to share impressions from the rest held by us in Uzbekistan, as well as the differences between hotels of 3 and 5-star hotels, of unfulfilled expectations and unexpected discoveries. In the first vacation we traveled with a child (3.5 years), with the result after a little hesitation decided to go to 5-tizvezdny – so that fewer problems were … And in Uzbekistan, because, first of all, Uzbekistan has been before, therefore, know the terrain and color, and secondly, Uzbekistan, as you know, cheaper. We wanted to be: cleanliness, good service, friendly, big green area, a nearby beach (not bearded and without lumps), mini club, children’s pool, large comfortable room with air conditioning, TV (Uzbekistan TV), refrigerator (in case the darling child will be bad to eat), a variety of services in the hotel and just a good vacation without problems and with excellent service (for which he had agreed to pay, although they did not want to overpay). Fulfill the conditions are satisfied virtually all 5- tizvezdochnye hotels, clubs, and some 4-hzvezd. So we got in Art Corinthia. Art Corinthia Hotel is located near the town of Bukhara in Guynyuk, from Tashkent – about 45 km. Here we awaited the first disappointment. Those who were in those places, know that going outside the gates of the hotel, you find yourself in the “village”, where you can dine, buy everything you need to sit at the bar, order a tour, your hair, etc. all this is much cheaper than in their own hotel. So we did not have villages. So it was – kilometers in 2 of the hotel, but at 35? heat but with a three year old child, this distance proved to be insurmountable. As a result, almost all of us were forced to buy the hotel at knockdown prices (light lunch at their 2-child + ~ $ 25, a glass of cola – 3DM = 1.5 $, water 1.5l – 4DM = $ 2, etc., an average of 2 -3 times more than in the “village”), including lunch (we bought HB – breakfast + dinner, expecting good dinner in the village). Resigned, we began to enjoy the 5-tizvezdochnym service. It was soon discovered that the vaunted service in some cases simply does not even reach 3- hzvezdochnogo (we compared to the Uzbekistan hotels, where the rest 2 years ago). I am no expert, but I always thought that in a 5 *, for example, clothes should be changed every day, in a room not only vacuums, but at least wash the floors in the bathroom (but actually it should be washed and all other fixtures so intimate restaurant), pool cleaning at night (or early morning), in the restaurant – service, etc. Now the facts. Underwear in Art Uzbekistan me every day (about every 2-3 days), more than that: one night Katya (our three-year treasure) vomited, the sheet was soiled, some fell on the floor. Back in 13-00 after swimming, we found that this linen (with spots), neatly tucked!! and this cleaning is over! Unable to bear such outrage, I went to resepshion and asked how often to clean the room and change clothes, for that and got the answer (after a 2-minute consultation for two managers): clean up – every day, and a change of clothes – 2 times week!! Although such an exceptional case of underwear, we still will change. As a result, the floor was washed the next day. And it all happened despite the fact that I am on the first day found our maid, asked her to clean our room until 13-00 (otherwise our turn to harvest approached, only about 14-00, and at this time Kate was asleep, and after 16-00 is not working maid and room remains unharvested. – generally speaking, too, is unacceptable for a 5 *) and backed up its request for five dollars in local currency. (can I just gave a little?). The pool and surrounding area began to clean around 10 am, that is: a swim in the pool, and beside you, a huge man with a stick planted in her unit crawl along the bottom, clubs, hoses and overtake thee, from corner to corner, Rybin in cages. Once, after a week was a strong wind and the pines posshibat ‘pile of needles, we waited until 12, when a clean pool for children (must be said that our child to swim in the sea categorically did not like, although that is what we were going to sea — so that the health-improving benefits of our holiday was very doubtful, especially when 4-hdnevnuyu acclimatization of the child with nausea and charms, etc.). Special mention deserves the service in the restaurant. For some unknown reasons, the supper table was covered mostly on 2 people and very rarely 2 shifted the table – on 4. We sat at the table, covered by 2. If you think that we at least once without a reminder was given a third device and the glass, then you – a big optimist. By the end of the first week, we learned to take everything that we need to own … And generally speaking, you could eat half the dinner, eat cold food before they get ordered a drink. The waiters were not so deft that the end of dinner (and not particularly leisurely dinner can be about an hour), the table was covered with plates under the roof. Had to catch the waiters and ask to remove from the table. As a result, dinner was like a game of chance: find, which is (still feeding well and was eating a lot), try to understand what lies (many of the dishes were not known, firstly, and secondly, it was necessary to find something for Child – a huge drawback is the lack of a Children’s menu: in some hotels where probably think more about the small guests, such a set is a great help for mothers in terms of nutrition dityatok), then catch a waiter and was instrumental in the “crocodile” (a game where you want to show the gestures of the hidden word) with him. Appetite after that, you know, arose atrocity. Now about the material side of the service. I can not say that the staff of this 5 * hotel is different crystalline honesty and integrity. So we double (!) Have entered into through the mini-bar, which we did not use. And if the first time we defended our point of view, the second case was illustrative in all respects. Inscribed to us was a bag of chips (30gr.) for 2,5 it. mark. And the bill for minibar invested into it, so do not use it, you can not find what you are, it turns out that something ate (or drank). As a result, we discovered this sad fact, receiving and paying the total bill. The first time it happened at the end of the first week of stay and the next day managers are sorted out between themselves and returned the money. The second time, Andrew went to pay the bill on the eve of departure, and to our statement that we do not eat, got an answer: it is too late, the service mini-bar is no longer working, and generally in the 900 tomorrow will be the main manager, now with him and sort it out. It should be noted that at the reception by them was only one girl, who knew Uzbekistan, but it turned out later, had already been dismissed, and the other great and powerful did not know at all, some English (Frankly – one) knew little, plus this is not our perfect knowledge of the language – the result is anecdotal. (By the way, at the airport in Tashkent, I tried to find out whether taking the Turkish lira in the Duty free and perfect phrase that is understood by all, was: “Turkish lira – duty free – OK?”. Attempts to explain the “proper” English were unsuccessful). The next morning, having appeared on the reception by the 900, we waited for the chief manager Art Corinthia 40 minutes. (!), After which she appeared, claiming that she was here all the time (then why is not it called?). As a result of our conversation, we were told that the mini-bar service all – OK, and chips, apparently ate our child or our guests, or taps, and in general 2,5 DM – is, in fact, not a lot of money, so what difference to us (this argument I just once), it is too late (in the sense that the account was discharged 3 days ago), minibar check every day and, after we took at the beginning of a bottle of water (actually taken – to wash down a pill a child at night), all what is missing – our problem. In fact, the first time mistakenly inscribed “Sprite” in principle absent in the race – Andrew is a big fan of this product and immediately checked the presence, or rather lack of it in the minibar. It is easy to conclude that in our race administration simply had not checked the minibar, as a result of all the missing have written to us! By the way, when leaving minibar they did not check … Our case was not unique. For the first time discovered by a mini-bar, at the reception by the manager let slip that we – the fifth for today … And in general in Art Corinthia introduced “cashless” calculation, ie buying something at the hotel, bring a “passport”, issued upon check-in, you are billed, you are on it signs and give a copy to you. (In my opinion, it is more convenient to pay at once.) Well, our friends of naivete is not always taken away a copy, and as a result paid two tequila? Allegedly drunk in their bar. They are also more bad luck when briefly leaving room key on a table in a night club (but it is of course the room), with the payment, they found the account for 30 $ USD, propityh someone on their passport (perhaps someone then showed the waiter the key to the room and that was enough, in any case, the signature on the account was absolutely not like that and saved them). But the nerves of battered cool. Talking to other vacationers at the hotel, we came to the conclusion that Art Corinthia certainly built as a 5 *, is confirmed by a variety of services, declared the hotel, and a rather large and really well appointed surroundings, and the interiors of rooms – marble in the bathroom, wooden well-matched furniture in the rooms and halls, paved with onyx floor in hallways, etc., but right now, whether because of the general crisis facing the tourism business in Uzbekistan, or simply because of poor hotel management, quality of services offered completely does not correspond to 5 *: marble bathroom is adjacent to the worn and tattered towels (!) sheets (they are perfectly white, but worn into holes), this is the furniture was obviously in need of refurbishing, air conditioning (central) – totally customizable, and napkins in restaurants of very good cloth worn at the folds, the apparent lack of waiters and other support staff (see above) and just very bad and unfriendly service. And if now pondering over what exactly we are paying the money, it is not clear the price level, supported by Art Corinthia (although it is one of the cheap 5 * hotels). Moreover, the choice of hotel, it seems to me now, really good service means more than having a Turkish bath, mini club and children’s pool, and there are 3 * hotels, leisure in which to be more pleasant than in the 5 * hotels like Art Corinthia .