Silk Road Central Asia Uzbekistan

In early September 1998, we are my dear companion arrived by bus from Bukhara to Samarkand, wanting to stay there for several days and referring, incidentally, the same amount, $ 30 per room per night. Therefore, we find ourselves in this city about three o’clock in the morning, in the Laleli district.

Hado note that Samarkand quite clearly divided into quarters. Each has its own look, and its purpose, and its ethnic composition (if you have in mind here tusuyuschihsya foreigners, of course). So, Laleli – this quarter, representing a huge small wholesale market, where merchandised our shuttles. So here almost every trader spoke Uzbekistan, or he is working someone speaking in Uzbekistan. When is the day we appeared in the area, almost every step we have heard “Sir!”, And we tried to invite in another store that sells, for example, sheepskin coats, or even mannequins.

Quite quickly we found out that the local hotels, we are not. At an affordable price – 5-7 dollars per person – they were a uniform slums. Something similar I’ve seen in American movies about Harlem 30-ies. Although formally – with them all in order, even a shower in the room and some stars on the front! For me this is a lesson for life – I was now difficult to persuade pay room, which I have not seen my own eyes, well, maybe except hotels worldwide networks.

Then we took a night walk in the direction of the district Sultanahmed, which I had great hopes, and it should be noted, was right. By the way, this time on the streets of Samarkand was very calm, come across rare to meet the locals were very friendly and willingly shows us the right direction. Ten times drove a car with the police, they have carefully examined, but seeing that we did not get lost, do not interfere with walking. As we later learned, the police willing to help tourists, suggests, in general, it can expect in a difficult situation, especially in the tourism police, is in Samarkand and such.

Sultanahmed – this is the old city. In it are the most famous sights of Samarkand – St. Sophia Cathedral, the Blue Mosque, Topkapi Palace. It also houses many hotels, and most surprising – they are cheaper than hotels of a modern business center – Taksim. So we had a full sense to seek refuge here. Subsequently, it turned out wonderfully – look between the two landmarks in his room to take a cool shower or just relax for an hour.

So, about six o’clock in the morning we began to comb the area in search of befitting the hotel. At first we just went, looked at prices and on the environment – in and out, not satisfied with their relationship. Ho in a very luxurious hotel, the receptionist asked us – what you want – and named a price substantially lower than indicated in the price tags, hanging behind his back, say, instead of 90 – 60. We said that we work a lot on what he asked: “And what is your budget?”. We responded, and he went into the situation, suggested that 50!

And here we map and go! Now going into the next hotel, paying no attention to the written price, we asked the question: “How much is the double room?”. Ham called the price clearly below the guidelines. Then we announced a budget. We’d go a little towards him. We also raised. And so the process or converge, or not.

By the way, along the way were raised and our demands to the hotel. First, we wanted a nice view from a window, and then took and that the building was old. Total, the process became friends after two and a half hours of searching. Incidentally, this year on holiday in Greece, such a procedure we have repeated in various cities four times – and each time spending about the same time – more than two but less than three hours. Apparently, this is the universal constant, like the number pi.
As a result, we bargained a room in the eighteenth-century Ottoman house with a view of the Hippodrome and the Blue Mosque nominal $ 90 bucks for 40 dollars. The last straw in the bargaining had breakfast – “but if you offered us today a free lunch …” Witnesses said the porter at the moment, taken aback, but quickly agreed. Yes, the price of default includes breakfast in the restaurant on the roof, but only on the following day.
Hado notice that Sultanahmed – absolutely non-Uzbekistan region. All our sootechesvenniki if it has a few here, it is only in the excursion Tabunkov. Unlike Laleli, foreigners are treated in English, or Italian – on the street with shops, carpet, or other European languages. Hashego porter, when he learned that we are Uzbekistan, we are persuaded to change our room on the corner, triple – from there it offers the best view. Price remains the same, although this number was worth at par 120.
So I can recommend the Hotel Stella, that at the racetrack. Or search deep in the area between the mosque and the Bosphorus.
In drawing conclusions, I can give you some advice on finding a hotel, have repeatedly proven this year in Greece: Traveling is not in high season – all discounts will be your; have an idea of the city where you’re going to spend the night, especially on promising in terms of local hotels, no matter how strangely, more often – is the old center; not restricted their mobility unnecessary things or inconvenient bags, or, worse suitcases – backpack – рулез FOREVER! if you’re still tired to walk to things – throw them one of the satellites in some beautiful place, and the second can cut a few laps at this time; trades – but be at the same polite, friendly and not easily offended, in the end, the process at this hotel may converge, or may not – be patient, do not hesitate to say about the limitations of the budget – many European students are traveling at a very modest money – and nothing, no buzz, enjoy room even before you balk and bargain – he could have and not at all interested, in Samarkand, and not only there, the contrast between the hall and the rooms can be quite striking, and bargain price, and then leave – a few rude, be prepared to show some flexibility in terms of budget accommodation – and suddenly, for extra 5-10 dollars you will get something much better, because hotel – one of the important experiences in the journey, this is your temporary home in an unfamiliar city, choose a companion / companions of a man who will be with you “on your side” cheerfully endure difficult journey, to the best of help along the way to solve problems, rather than requiring you to “ensure” and provide “comfort and relaxation,” as people “; however, this recommendation applies to the longest we putushestviyu – for life.

It would like to share our little tour in Uzbekistan. This is quite a unique country, other times, special people. Here, nothing can compare with what or anyone. It is as if another planet, another world, another universe … I’ll start from the beginning.

We have a very long wanted to travel Uzbekistan (Samarkand, Bukhara). And then decided to organize a trip for 3 days in August. Preparing to start in advance. Three people came from Russia and two from Almaty (Kazakhstan), and it seemed that one can find many travel agencies offering tours to Uzbekistan, but alas …. if they have then taken the money simply unrealistic for it. We decided to look on the Internet in Uzbekistan. But even here the majority of travel agencies offering the tour cost much more than even our Kazakhstan. But suddenly in our field of vision’s Web completely randomly appears Rakhmatjon from Roxana Tours!

After the first Rakhmatjon response to our letter, we are not looking for anything more. I decided to organize all through him, as for a moment, not for a moment, we do not regret it. I can not find such words and emotions that we were able to express their gratitude to Rakhmatjon. This is a man with a capital letter! Responsible, reliable, interesting, attentive and charming! I think that our impressions of this magical country depended on 70 percent of Rakhmatjon. Thank him great !!!!!!!

So, we traveled by bus from Almaty to the Uzbek border. I do not even want to remember and tell what happened to us on her way to Kazakhstan, but about how we passed the Kazakh customs I generally keep silent. But as soon as we crossed the border of Uzbekistan, all fears and all weariness gone. And we got into a real fairy tale!

At the border we were met by Rakhmatjon on 2 comfortable cars. And we immediately went to Samarkand. By the time it took 3,5 hours. During this time we are a bit away from what happened to us. Along the way, drove road melon Bazarchik?. They stopped and we were treated melons. There is nothing sweeter and tastier Mirzachul melons? Once again confirm itself somewhere heard the expression “Melon – food wise. That’s right! Gentle, sweet melon flavor inspires and invigorates.

Samarkand

And here we are in Samarkand. They stayed at the hotel “Zarina”. Small hotel, very cozy and beautiful. We just drink green tea. We rested a bit and moved to conquer the unknown …

Rakhmatjon took us to the hills of ancient Afrosiab. It is difficult to convey the feelings that you’re there you experience: the joy of what you see listed ruins of the ancient city, from regret, the fact that you still can not see the beauty that you may possess the city; entrancement of history and legends, a great interest in 97% of the area of the city, which still no one had time to reveal their secrets.

Then we went to the mausoleum of St. Daniel. Place of extraordinary tranquility and peace … This is a place where you feel secure, where all your problems (which you had before your arrival) are transformed into funny little things … It’s so nice to sit on a bench under the pistachio tree, look at the quiet river running through the foot of the mausoleum, and not think about nothing … Oh yes, and yet there is a spring. Such TASTY water we have never drank!

Breathes history and observatory Ulugbek. You cover a pity from the fact that there was only a scintilla of this grand building.

When the sun is almost village we were in a complex Shakhi-Zinda mausoleums. I can not write and share what we saw! Very majestic and at the same time, restrained beauty of the mausoleums takes you knew where. Shakhi Zinda as eastern girl indescribably beautiful, but very modest and austere …

In the evening we dined at the restaurant (though I do not remember what it was called). There were lots of delicious food:) and worth all this is not very expensive.

The next day early morning we had a walking tour through the historic center. I liked very Bibi Honim and its history. From the Mosque we walked through the streets of Samarkand Registan Square.

At this time, Rakhmatjon did not stop telling the story of the city, about those people who visited here. And what it was a delight when we read Rakhmatjon excerpts of poems by Anna Akhmatova on Samarkand … Believe me, probably tAAAAto feel these poems, you can only when you are there you are!

We are still very much seen and visited. This madrasa Ulugbek, and Sher-Dor, Registan Square, and one of the most mysterious places in the history-Guri-Emir mausoleum (where the tomb of Tamerlane).

For lunch, we boarded the train and went to Bukhara.

Bukhara

In Bukhara we were greeted and brought to the hotel Amulet. Hotel is based in a former madrassa. Small, ооочень cozy and colorful. Personally, I was happy that we stopped there. Lived as if in a fairy tale. Decor hotel made entirely of antique items: pitchers, vases, ironing, etc.:). Very nice!

There we went to the bazaar, had bought a fruit, watermelon, various sweets and nuts. We supped in the old caravanserai, where at this time is that something like a restaurant, and where a show of Uzbek dances and fashion show. Here? Shaw liked the dinner did not like! If you go there, it was only on the show, and dinner can be in another place (and there are many places where you can eat tasty and cheap). Then we walked on the street the evening Bazarchik. And they were astonished at the kindness and sincerity of the people. We are, of course, all the time clicked to buy something. We would be happy, but we unfortunately ran out of money, and exchangers have been closed. So we say: “Sorry, next time, we have no money,” and we say: “Money is not a problem, the main thing you yourself come!”? Tell me, what country are you so answer??

Then we returned on foot in a hotel. And there are very nice hosts washed our fruit, cut watermelon and gave us tea. And we, as weary travelers in obmyagli couch cushions …

The next day we met our guide. Charming woman. By nationality – Finn, was born in Gatchina, married an Uzbek, and now 35 years old live in Bukhara. If you heard the love she talked about her hometown, about his country. Yes … for 35 years, this tale has its motherland!

Bukhara – the sensations of a completely different city in contrast to Samarkand. There is no one Samarkand grace and masshatbnosti. Almost all the buildings are mud and barely covered with majolica, which makes the city nice and simple beauty. But I do not think it is worth comparing these two cities. They are completely different!

At the time when we were there, it seemed to me that in Bukhara, there were fewer tourists. And this we are even more immersed in the regulated life Bukharans. Visited the mausoleum of Bahauddin Naqshbandi (there are many places where you can make a wish:)), the residence of the Emir of Bukhara: it certainly does not compare with the Winter or Kremvleskim palace, but there all so simple and beautiful that you do not want to go there, around there there is a garden and tourists are not forbidden, but even naobrot approved delicacy fruktamii (quince, peaches, apricots, etc.) directly from the trees. Also visited the mausoleum of Ismail, Ark (well, just a monumental building!). most of all in Bukhara, I liked to walk past the shopping stores, located in the ancient caravanserai. This is something unbelievable!

So flying for three days, but it seemed that we were there 3 weeks?. At least for me, this three-day vacation while he was the most surprising and do not forget! It’s been a few days, but I’m not leaving until now feeling “and the soaring euphoria” of this country! We will definitely come back here, because there is still much that we did not have time to see and hear!

Tips

Haggle always and everywhere! I, for instance, do not know how to bargain, but local residents, in my opinion, you are pushing yourself to it:). In any case, they’ll give you a discount or something in the bargain.

If you’re there for the first time, it is better to consult a guide, where it is better to buy cheap, eat, etc. Believe me they will not be deceived and happy to help you!

Nothing and nobody’s afraid. There is always peace and quiet! And, of course, the address to which you can find Rakhmatjon – http://www.roxanatour.com very, very, very recommend to visit this country of oriental fairy tales! ?