March-April 2000
“Timetable”
Lived a boy in a big city. And one day he really wanted in the mountains. So much that he decided to go there alone. The mountains were very far away, and the journey could be dangerous. But the boy did not wait for favorable circumstances, and carefully collected the necessary things, went on a long journey. Oh is he wanted.
He was all for this trip, and lucky him all the way to the mountains. At the foot of the mountains, at the entrance to the fabled mountain country, the boy met with a cloud. A cloud was very large, many more young travelers. Because it was not clear where to go. In addition, it was a snow cloud. And soon all the mountains sheltering blanket of snow. The boy realized that the next move is dangerous – 50/50.
Cloud saw the boy and said:
- If you want, you can climb the mountains. Of course, you risk getting lost. It will be cold, but the wood is wet, and difficult to find under the snow. In general, you can not come back alive. You will be lonely, and if something happens, no you will not help. Still, nobody can forbid you to go further.
And then the boy realized he did not know why he came here. And then decided to return.
… On the way back he was met by guards of the world, where he began this journey. And detained. Guard asked the boy:
- Where did you come from? What are you doing here alone in the exclusion zone?
- I strayed from the group of his companions and lost, – replied the boy, – and I hope that someone will help me to return home.
Guardians were not malicious and did not hide the way to the city. And the boy safely reached the big city. He came to visit his friends and told this tale.
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March 13
We arrived in Karshi. Tried to register there. We spent several hours in the apartment we rented a driver car. We have 10 people. Two will be with us only until the moment of getting to the ridge. It turned out that the registration should not expect less than a day. I wanted to be faster in the mountains, and we decided to leave the Karshi and try to register in Sherabad. They traveled at night. When approaching the mountains, it was still dark. We stopped in the steppe. They could not immediately find a way to the right we gorge. Very dark and chilly. Burned a fire, drinking tea. The car had gone off and returned with the firewood. They were freshly branches of fruit trees in our valley. By morning, were on the spot.
Since March 14
We decided to stay in the house shepherds. Three people immediately sent to Sherabad with all documents. … We looked at the clock impregnable wall in the distance – it was the pass to which we were going to rise. All this was incomprehensible. Then look again. It did not help. We climbed higher, but the pass looked all the same unassailable. But we knew that somewhere up Sasha Roshchin, and it was the most likely place: accumulation of snow in some places, indicating that they flatten the slope. We were at the house three days waiting for the guys. The first night of the howling wolves of the mountains, very close and very scary. We have thoroughly discussed the characteristics of the howling and came to the conclusion that it was the spring roll with wolves. But internally check myself again: why I’m here.
Since March 16
We went out in the moonlight. Few have risen, and she began to come over the ridge. They climbed the steep slopes and sypushnym in almost complete darkness. We quickly gain altitude, and shlos hard. At some point, begin to lag. I see before me the land and feel that I was going alone. A little more, and force me to leave completely. Aware that, no matter how difficult shlos, you can not break away from the group. The only way to overcome the difficult parts of trails as easily as it is now generally possible. At night, somewhere below wolves howled again. Does not pay any attention to this.
Quite light. We enter the zone of snow. A large meadow just below the pass. It remains to collect what some 50 meters. I looked down. It can be seen all over the world. That world, where we came from. Now it looks as strange and incomprehensible, like the pass, when we looked up at him.
The sun was already high. The surface layer of snow melted and does not hold. Come on, sinking into it, sometimes to the waist. Get out of the snow pit and again fails. I want to drink. Snow is very tasty, in different parts of the slope in different ways. In some places it smells, it seems, pine needles, but too subtle to be accurately determined. All this takes several hours.
And so we pass. I am no longer interested in the world behind. Hence see top Kugitang – Airi-Baba, all in snow. It seems that it is not very far. Just below begin canyons. On This upper-Grants, to the canyon, where lies our way. We stood under archoy a few meters below the pass. A fire, drinking tea, eating chocolate saddle. It was necessary to recuperate before the upcoming descent. In Archa left our mirrors – an offering to the spirit of the pass.
Topic: two began their journey, and we went in another direction. Near the pass Sai were heavily covered with deep snow. We descended the plateau of lower and lower, but the place of descent into the canyon is still not there. In the upper reaches of one of Saev, which seemed familiar to us, stopped and decided to get up camp. It soon became dusk. Somewhere in sai come across a plant with thick, oblong leaves. Suggested that it was tulips. Sleep. In the morning, again looking for a descent into the canyon.
18 – March 19
We descended on the sai, which has descended. I had to use a rope. Cy was a fairly steep steps, and were dipped in a canyon. Yet we could not accurately determine the place of our location. Not far from the place of descent erected a temporary center. They drank tea out of snow. Below snowfields no. We decided to just below a cozy spot under a rock to stand up camp, before going further. Full moon. Night. Wind. The high walls of the canyon until obstruct the moon. She gradually begins to illuminate the canyon, and now, finally, all lit up. I feel like something is flowing down the canyon outside time and space, and bathe in the elusive thread. Here were born our mirrors. They reflect these mountains, sky, moon and stars Kugitang. Now, they often accompany us in our travels.
March 20
After preliminary exploration we continue down the canyon. Do not know how things stand with the water below. We stop at the big puddles under high step – a cup of tea. Here the canyon is quite narrow, and from all sides we are surrounded by cliffs. This creates a feeling of cosiness. We are located on the flat, washed with water slabs. Thoroughly replenish water in the body, we go further, not stopping until the Grotto.
At the Grotto we were greeted by dusk. Two argali watching us from above the canyon. Then their silhouettes dissolve into the darkness, and there is no certainty that they were general.
Where usually recruited water, now barely dripping. To stock up plenty of water, part of the group goes below to find puddles. Even in the dark. Others went for firewood. Archie is not growing, but the top pan juniper wood. Normally found in cracks and under stones. And the trees, called us “fruit”.
Sitting by the hearth at the bottom of the canyon. We went to the Grotto, smoking his pipe. As always.
We are in no hurry to move to the Grotto. While there is an opportunity to act, we commit them. Went to explore for deposits of firewood in the nearby sai. We met ephedra bushes and thickets of green onions, young and in this place for some reason, very sweet. Onions often now add into the food, ephedra – in tincture.
We went briefly to the three-tiered grotto next door, blew his breath. The need to take action, beginning to leave us. This is the umpteenth time hardly overcome stiffness, and nothing “terrible” does not occur. At such moments, striking that, if we move fast enough, then the action becomes very effective. And if a little slower – ridiculous and even dangerous.
Sometimes we sit, and then suddenly into our trifling conversation penetrate any impulses. I do not understand, but involuntarily begin to catch their rhythm. If you follow this rhythm, you soon begin to know that these tremors tearing the fabric of the time. And behold a picture is completely assembled. Do not let her turn around and become fluid. In fact, do not know how to do it.
From March 23
Grotto. Immobility now prevails. No action can not be done here without the consent of this place. Just do not have enough strength. All now – the ritual.
The first night stay extremely difficult. The whole body is constantly numb, numb and generally behaves as if sitting for the first time. Sometimes the pressure becomes unbearable. Then everyone goes to such an extent no longer repeats.
Shut up and listen … Tales of the Grotto.
Rains. After a while they disappeared from water problems. Go fogs. Sometimes, watching the moon through the mist, and sometimes – Twilight in the fog. At night the frogs are singing now. Very melodious. But it is too loud. Still, it is unclear where they go, when there is no water.
Day heat. You can even wash my hair. All blossoms, green, and sometimes even bloom. Revived the birds and other insects.
From March 31
We say goodbye to Groth. We get down to our hearth in the bottom of the canyon at dusk. Slightly delayed: dark, and generally poor visibility. The case for the new moon, and brighter it will be not soon. We did not hurry. Finally, we leave and go up the canyon to the fork and continue on the right otvilke. It is now quite dark. With lanterns in our so-so. Frequently see blockages. All penetrate or cost on shelves, where, with backpacks, backpacks and where necessary to transmit.
We got up camp under the wall of the canyon. Close up – the puddles. This is our last camp vvosmerom. Soon the two of us will go to sbrosku. And while we eat off a bit and relax.
April 1
Decide to start sbrosku, although go now nobody wants. A few hours back: could not find in the dark Come out on the plateau, and lay sbrosku until the next day.
Just above our camp canyon varies. He often narrows, and begin blockages. Almost all have to climb. Bottom in many places – monolithic slab. A lot of puddles. Pleasant way along the corridor farther and farther without the things and time limit. He ends with a high impassable stage, under which – the whole frog lake. Frogs are large, all completely busy spring mating. In this part of the canyon of trees grow only fruit, but the deposits of juniper wood are more common. Sometimes the entire canyon quietly fill some midges. In the slanting rays of the sun they resemble snow. Then disappear. Found not a single pair of horns spiral-horned sheep.
Of April 6
At dusk, leave the camp first down. Looking Come out to the plateau in total darkness. In one place using a rope. We go on a plateau along the side of the canyon. It’s dark, but it seems there is some illumination. Maybe this city. On the plateau can be clearly seen their lights. After some time go out to the sai, where stood the first time. We are staying here until the next day – to restore power. During this time, everything here is very much overgrown with “tulips. Try not to tread.
Day six of us are starting a new journey. We go on a plateau in the direction of Bulak-Grants. Looking descent. Actual hard, eager to escape the shadow of the rocks. At sypuhe have unpleasant side-Bulak Gifts come across tour. For a long time trying to figure out what it means. Finally, we find the descent to say. Here come across snowfields. Under the boughs of juniper relax, drink tea, make a small supply of water.
Unhurriedly down on sai. Very beautiful, narrow, wall – weathered rock with lots of small Darts for very small as mice, creatures. In some places have pristrahovatsya rope. For a long time down. Were displayed wall of the Grand Canyon, but the feeling is that the bottom is still very far away. There are many comfortable places for young stoyanochek. Venues quite high among the rocks are sometimes no more than two or three meters, straight. There is snow, there is firewood. But here we stand, of course, not going. Just admire.
Suddenly, quickly reaches the bottom of Bulak-Grants. Below sai forms a narrow corridor is very short regular shape, through which can pass only one person. From it once you get into the canyon. We got up camp almost a descent. Made a hotbed for rock. Today is not going anywhere. The boys went to explore for a half hour walk up. Found two grotto, suitable for parking. Here, not far from the camp, the puddles. In them, however, accumulate gnats, but if you dial the water in small portions, they are easily filtered.
From April 9
Went down the canyon to view the neighborhood. The canyon is wide and spacious. There are impassable steps. Cost on the shelves. The walls of the canyon here are high, sometimes at the bottom – the narrow corridors of the weathered rocks. Almost no water. At the bottom is a lot of huge stones intact blockages. There are many small stones with holes and some white crystals.
By nightfall moved to the grotto. The grotto is located on the southern slope of 30 meters above the bottom of the canyon. Approval certificates part – the most extensive, then gradually narrows grotto. Smooth a small playground, a vaulted ceiling along the walls – a pile of stones, stacked as if on purpose. Groth shallow and short, not more than five meters at the highest point. By the far wall begins to fall sharply, and that part can only walk hunched over. Places are enough for a group of 6-8 persons, not more. Even getting up to the grotto on the slope, notice the distinctive odor of some herbs. It seems familiar. The entire slope is overgrown with plants that we constantly take for tulips. Soon it turns out that this is anything but tulips and wild garlic. Now, garlic is always present in our diet: rice with garlic, pasta with garlic, with garlic stuffed pancakes, crepes a bit of sugar and garlic. The most delicious delicacy – with dried garlic and cheese. And then we’ll do without garlic? Later we found another edible grass, called by us a carrot for the characteristic rod-like root.
Putting backpacks at the entrance, go immediately to see the second cave, located near the opposite wall of the canyon. This grotto – an almost perfect dome shape, slightly higher than the first, the entrance facing the south. The geometry of the space so it is correct that no doubts: the grotto – a ritual, and not very suitable for parking. Return.
Once again I was surprised to look into the clearing under the cliffs at the bottom of the canyon. A fairly large, about one hectare, very smooth – this meadow. These we have not yet met. Since wood is good here. At this altitude juniper is not uncommon. The nearest water – in the same puddles. Above is the snow, but far away. On the ceiling of the cave somewhere grows mumiyo.
Settles in the grotto. At the top is not very comfortable. All were hungry, but so far the situation does not have a pleasant dinner.
From the canyon to the grotto blowing wind. Night owl moans. At the last park we have not heard, although it is very close. Shout quite human, and in the first moment, I am sure that these are people – maybe we saw the fire and give us signals. But, of course, is an owl. At the hooting of owls all the time responds a beast – a hyena or other nocturnal predator.
Day in the surface dust is beginning to find the grotto clay shards, some with traces of paint, pieces of wood treated by man, old. Now it becomes clear – in a cave once very long ago people lived. In remote parts of the cave there are porcupines moves. Soon we find the stone and bone tools, with obvious signs of handling by man. Stone knife, spear and arrow … Stone some special, in a canyon of something not visible. Judging from the findings, people who lived here, engaged in hunting.
During the day we walk up the canyon – one and in small groups. Not far from the grotto canyon begins to branch. Inspect otvilki, looking for caves and Come out on the plateau: the products coming to an end, and already have to think about sbroske.
Since April 12
Thunderstorm. Night. It is good that we are in a cave. Once, suddenly, as if on cue, livened up insects and mice. In one night we visited and a scorpion, and Scolopendra: quite big nasty insects that cause the body unexplained fever. Many large spiders, quite nice. Mouse is now inhabited our kitchen. We are not afraid, and indeed, I think, are afraid of nothing. Drive them elusive.
Exit the grotto is oriented to the north. When the moon shines at night opposite wall of the canyon, creating a feeling that cave – it is a huge hall of the cave, and the wall of the canyon – its wall. Anything below the grotto, falls into the darkness and is seen as the bottom of this cave. The picture is very stable. If I suddenly woke up in a place, I would not raise any doubt that this is – a huge cave room.
April 14
Drizzling rain, but not for long. About to go to the pass.
Send daylight up the canyon and then along the left otvilke. The canyon is always changing – that is narrowed, then widened. For every turn – a new tale. After some time a halt. Here, from one wall to the other bed is composed entirely monolithic slabs. Anisochromatic in a variety of colors cliffs – all in the figures. Snow begins. We drink tea and go further.
Few pass, and begin the steps and impassable rubble. Stops frequently. Somewhere we have to use a rope. Dark. We climb the next step and decide to get up camp. Next – big Sneznik. Still feel that we are appreciated.
In the morning, straight from the parking go up to the plateau on the wall of the canyon, there is quite shallow and easily passable. Right on the plateau come across caves, small, but well protected from wind and other weather. It is evident that there often are people. Already the day down into the canyon, so as not to go round. Here he is shallow with gently sloping walls. Very enticing many cozy corners. Growing garlic, although we have not far from the pass.
April 15-16
Rested again rise to the plateau and go to the pass without stopping. We arise under archoy. Here is lined with low wind-proof wall. Traces of the fireplace. Ephedra grows large bushes.
Sunset. Almost opposite the sun – the moon. I looked down. But the look is not required. I know, and so that everything from top to bottom carved thin lines unintelligible. That – Sai, canyons, river stone. … Moon River and lakes. That lit a fire, and we sat under a rock. Or a stone. Or in the center of the huge Grotto. Or small. We sat by the fire. The fire dies down, and eternity surrounded us on all sides. Kugitang – this is certainly not the place marked on the map. And nobody knows exactly where he is. Here you “door”, and do not have time to recover, as is already provided for her. Traveling here – it’s not romance, no adventure: inside you there is a need – to stay in this place. And it is – an integral part of you. Currently there are no thoughts. Need to adjust the trigger. We return.
They went out at sunset. The descent was long and hard. The moon was shining diffuse light, then all disappeared behind the ridge. The snow came down recently, and the stones are not crumpled. Go to sypuhe very unpleasant. Soon be off the trails, do not see the tours. But we go, is still underway. Sometimes the wolves are howling.
In the early dusk come to the house of shepherds, where to begin our journey. During this time the tulips bloom. Finally managed to see them firsthand. Morning. We drink tea and relax. I notice that often look at the pass. But in order to find out something.
No detergents, leaving the gorge. Road. Sitting at the curb. Tries to catch the car. Circle – small clumps of fragrant sage and even some plants. It is still clearly visible and the crest of the pass, where we descended. I try to look not so often.
… Then I see that a few meters from the road and parallel to it is an ant trail. Long, which begins – not visible. In one side of her running ants traveling light, and in another – loaded with all sorts of little blades of grass. It is not clear where the ants have their grass. They are all very accurately follow the path and before taking the grass, walk long distances. It is not clear: for these sticks everywhere. Ants are very absorbed in this process. Some try to take the baton ten times longer than they. This is inconvenient. They are clumsy and slow. Others are trying to take away the stick for those ants that have found it sooner. There is a struggle, and the winner takes the stick forward and the loser goes in search of a new one. Apparently, no sticks ants can not go back.
Here, at last, and the machine. We sat down at her, and in the evening – we are in Samarkand.
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Dec 17 2009