Continuation (Boysun part of the expedition)
15. Baysun closed
On the morning of March 30 came the news that Baysun closed. And all the mountains in Uzbekistan also closed. The news reported workers’ Artuch “- director of the club, Boris and other organizers of tours. Take, say, in Tajikistan – have advised them (they are there and working, mostly foreigners, have their base). So, go. However, there is snow on the ears.
Boris promised us to get authorization for a month in different mountainous regions of Uzbekistan (still possible – and Tashkurgan, and other places). But Baysun not recommended.
Today, our group has decreased by one person. He went to Moscow. With it shipped items suspected of that may be redundant. And we are taking the financial results and build new plans. Results showed that limit themselves to the money still have, all Mercedes cars, we afford no longer can. And plans – let them ripen yet.
16. Samarkand. Again winter
At night it began to snow, and by noon on March 31 the snow is still melting.
Benefit from the advances of civilization (basin, washing powder and a gas stove), to be washed. In the cold mountain streams, yet such things do. Here, however, too cold: so that all dry, have about 12 hours to burn the gas in the shower, where they hung clothes.
And the morning of April 1 – in a teapot ice. Still, for this time of year is a bit steep, and in February is warmer.
Tonight – New Moon. With a newborn moon will begin a new cycle of our journey. On April at 7 am left Samarkand scheduled bus (up to Termez) for two and a half thousand Soum per person with luggage. Already in the way we solve completely – going to Baysun.
17. Derbent Tajiks
Crawled in Derbent. Here we transfer to local transportation. We stopped in oshhane (ozn. “kitchen”, such as tea house). Looking for a car. Meanwhile us hooked Derbent bosses – the people’s deputy and chairman of the rural gathering with relatives – Tajiks spree. We poured vodka into a bowl, tortured with questions. It turns out that we have them – and mother, and sister, and brother. Then suddenly naturedly promised to drive us out of Derbent moment. Soon it becomes clear that almost all the bosses in Derbent – Tajiks. And the village itself, like Macha – Tajik. And just above – in Kyzylnaure and Kienthal – live Uzbeks.
After a lengthy feasts give us written authorization “Macha – Kyzylnaur” unknown void. They call for a visit.
But we go on a visit to our driver. Much must be discussed. The road through the gorge eroded spring waters, and through the mountains (the plateau Sarymas) – much longer. So the price is assigned a very high, and we are trading a long time.
Finally, we agreed. We spend the night in the house: the driver does not want to go at night. On the morning of April 3 old mother, the hostess reads the farewell prayer, and we’re leaving.
18. “Russian Extreme”
Passing Derbent. It is a picturesque village, the best of those that we have seen over the past journeys.
Entering the gorge. The road badly damaged. Somewhere it’s not quite, ride on the water. Bridges in terrible condition. One bridge had to go round the bottom. The driver almost praying, that everything worked out. We – as well. Often helps him to keep all the levers. All the fun cost us 22 thousand sum up Kyzylnaura.
We stop at the last house. Here we take mules. We, according to the laws of hospitality, once invited into the house and fed – from the road. One of the sons of master of the house held by the “tea ceremony”. Striking: in villages are very developed level Pasha (service) – a rarity for the Kali Yuga. It seems a bit of luck these guys – and close to enlightenment. But later we saw that this advantage is offset by one very big disadvantage: the power of the community does not cut off from its environment, firmly holding. City man is under less pressure, but with the same result.
Long agree on the price of donkeys. Also expensive. 5 thousand Soum – and two donkey and an ox driver go with us in Chahmok (local name of the river Urmanche). We were eight.
19. Three and a half years ago
Soon begins bridlepath. Although there is a road on top, we go through it.
The snow came down recently, and it rained. This path is very similar to the one on which we dropped three and a half years ago, in November. Everywhere – The sodden clay, stick boots with thick, Champs underfoot. As if some days have passed since then.
Soon after Kyzylnaurom (amazing coincidence) met, right on the road, our old friend, assistant forester. It discourages us to go further: some bosses can detect. Offers to wait a week at his home. Repeatedly reject this proposal. Incidentally, it generously – enlists the help. He advises to wait for dusk, and under the cover held Kienthal. What we are doing.
Finally, moving away from Kienthal at a safe distance. It was already dark. Our guide, 23-year guy, on the road singing a song, loudly, loudly. The song, however, quite beautiful. We breathe heavily on the rise, but with enthusiasm. With a number of halts (only one with tea) come to the appointed place, on which donkeys will not go.
We gather hearth. Campfire. Sitting, resting. Night in the valley hear hooting owl. Impenetrable darkness. Cold, wind, frost around – a little cold, but no snow. In the sky too many stars, in order to understand the constellations: the Big Dipper and very dense Milky Way, Jupiter is well highlighted.
We put a tent. Troy took a chance to get some sleep, while three – including our Uzbek satellite – sitting around the campfire. At dawn, he and the donkey go, but we are witnessing a stunning picture of us: where we are going to – white, white, everywhere there is snow.
During the day a bit warmer. We are trying to sleep while there is a possibility.
20. Horses and storm
Our camp is divided into a summer parking shepherds. On the morning of April 5, when went to the brook for water, met independently of grazing horses.
Day suddenly began to snow, then livanul rain, continues even at night. To go higher, even though exploration, in such weather somehow does not dare. Night thunderstorm. Darkness lit up the magnificent flashes of lightning. They are clearly visible even in the tent, where we sheltered from the weather. Horses moved closer to us.
21. Back to the village
On the morning of April 6 was cleared up and soon hit the heat. Past the camp just below the trail ride some riders. Attracted by the crackle of breaking wood, drove up to us: the local police was instructed to find us and bring in Baysun in the police department. He is accompanied by the foresters, the road show. In Baysun we need to get permission, what – no one really can not speak. Nevertheless, the camp has to turn and go after them. We left the valley and we gave the donkey – to Kienthal went without backpacks.
Were soon Kienthal. This is a beautiful village: around the mountain are severe, a lot of juniper, big meadows on the hills (in translation “Quintana” – a large field). Here we spend the night in the house of one of the foresters. We were well fed.
It is remarkable that here, as in many other houses, where we’ve stop living cat. It turns out, cats – even the very mountain animals.
April 7 in the morning follow later in Kyzylnaur under the scorching sun. In Kyzylnaure we brought in the same house where we took the donkeys. Here – our friend the forester, was advised not to come to the mountains. Together, able to persuade a state official not to drag all down with backpacks, and delegate to two of our representatives with all the documents.
This group was divided and some time going through different adventures. Some endured the long journey and communicating with the police. Other – immersion in the study of village life and (for myself) Uzbek culture.
22. Kyzylnaur
“Kyzyl” means red. Kishlak rises over the river is really red (at least for now). A lot of red clay in the vicinity. But the full meaning of the name of the local do not know.
Here, all the mud houses with stones, usually of four rooms and a patio. This house is built not one year. Large areas. Living wheat, potatoes, tomatoes. Land is cultivated on the ass wooden instrument. Everywhere grazed by goats and sheep in large numbers. There is a cow. But the meat they eat here often, mostly on holidays.
Of milk, that so do not drink for some reason, do katyk – like yogurt, in various houses he turns out different. Few make butter. For it is stored, it is salted.
In the villages there is a mill. Bread Uzbeks her, baked in tandoor (cob oven). Cake – the sacred food. Travelers are made cakes to give. In different homes at different times and different cakes. Some – tasty, spiced with fat and katyk, others – quite simple. Rice – a rarity, but the holidays always prepare pilaf. Every second person in the village – a hunter.
Some have cars and motorcycles. Very colorful spectacle is Uzbek in caftans and skullcap bearing the motorcycle on a mountain road.
The youth allegedly elders, unbelted. Many stolen – horses, sheep, bad lies. Nevertheless, old customs, young people know and respect. There is no “spirit” of remote village here.
Women hold slightly incomprehensible situation: when the formal adherence to Muslim traditions are often seen that the affairs of the house is run by them. In the summer, in addition to everyday affairs, begins harvesting thread, and in the fall, women weave. Therefore, in the homes of many carpets and other ornaments made by the hands of the local masters. As products come across some very interesting patterns, sometimes – this mandala.
They sleep in the houses on the floor, a subgenre underneath mattresses (on which day of sitting at dastarkhan), sheltering under a thick blanket on top. Bed linen is not accepted. But blankets, mattresses and pillows are very bright colors, with beautiful pictures. From furniture – chests, can seldom be any wardrobe.
The houses are not rare handmade amulets. And in general, it seems that there reigns archaic beliefs, and Islam, as well as modern culture, there is a parallel, without exerting much influence on daily life.
Drugs in the villages there (doctor of all injections pinitsilina), so locals make drugs themselves. For example, Mia – a decoction of the mountain herbs Mia, who, after many hours of exposure to fire (only the top layer – foam) crystallizes. Black-brown crystal has a concentrated sweet-bitter taste. Toilets are a few homes (toilet paper do not find). All go to the mountains, there are many good small cozy canyons with fairly dense juniper vegetation. Water – from the small rivers flowing from the canyons. It is sometimes turbid due to suspended clay, but the emphasis on this has not been given. Winter cold, and in every home a few stoves – stoves from metal sheets.
In the commodity-money relations considered normal bartering. Prices for the products of modern civilization local imagine other than manufacturers and sellers of Moscow shops.
Evening of 9 April we gathered guests – young guys from Kyzylnaura and Kienthal. Their four. On the occasion of departure of his master, some children 14 – 16 years, although not allowed, also sitting with us. Guys all night Uzbek sang songs, played on doyra and even danced. By the end of the festivities was also a fight – because of the girl. It turned out that the local youth enjoys national struggle “courage.” With some difficulty, managed to reassure all and go to sleep.
The night of 10 on April 11 about three in our group was back at full strength. Permission to stay in the mountains we got. Oral true. Because there is no official form of authorization, as we expected. We returned to the guys from Baysun Derbent on the machine, and then walked to Machaya (approximately 25 km) at night, with a rather old elders. Now Kienthal celebrate 40 days of death of one Babayan (100 years) and from different villages gather there people. The river overflowed its banks much: a few days it was hot, and snow in the mountains of active melting. The road in many places flooded. Most were wading through the pipes, and (in the valley pipeline) over the fast flowing somewhere at the bottom of a river. They helped elders. The flashlight is not just handy. Of Machaya all able to take the car – 11 people in a six-cabin. They stayed at our house – to dry, drink tea and rest a bit. Another dark went on foot in Kienthal, and the five of us left.
Two more days spent in Kyzylnaure: no donkeys – they went for. While negotiating: we have no money, but you have to pay for the donkeys. On the morning of April 13 has come to an agreement. Backpacks loaded on donkeys, parted with the hosts and went out.
23. “Other” trail
The trail has dried up and goes like a good thing. A lot of water: We cross it on logs, then wade across. Strongly got soaked. Stopped on the lawns, a little before reaching the lift to our meadow. Soon it was getting dark and we spend the night here. Night is clear, the moon is high and bright.
In the morning, the sky darkened and rain began. Few posomnevalis: Do not ride out the storm. Refreshments and walked away. Along the road intact meadows growing garlic, green onions, local plant uldzhan – a little more.
Fog goes on around us. Sometimes it drizzles. We climbed the hill, and the fog became thicker. Outwaits under archoy: in this “milk” can get lost. When the fog dissipated a bit, become visible snow, in the meadow below us – saucerization. That seemed to the walls of the canyon. A few minutes down to our clearing.
The path along which we walked from the villages, often seemed a strange, other than she remembered. And here – all as before. Only here the river – red. Sneznik lying around. The walls of our on-site, but slightly ruined by the local population: looking for something. And: to depart far from our focus has somehow not attracted.
We then mist envelops, the rain pours. They collected center adjacent to the church: inside now snowfields and some Uzbek disorder. Sitting around the campfire. When it becomes very wet – we hide in the tent.
24. Changes. Twelve months. Guests
On the morning of April 15 the rain stopped. Sneznik little posmyvalo per night. Still overcast. The water in the river is clean, not red. Soon it began to rain again. We hid under archoy. They were waiting for the rain is about to end. But he did not think end. And then threw the snow. And in the evening – a real winter. At night the moon was hiding in the clouds, flooding the meadow soft light of dusk. We sit around the campfire, and wander past the fog, condensing it, then scattered. Frost.
On the morning of the sixteenth begins to dawn, and the snow – thaw. Sad and fun to watch the changes, recklessly dear brothers get up twelve months. Is the heroine of a fairy tale for participation in his adventure was rewarded noble bridegroom? Maybe it just burned at the stake for witchcraft.
Happy snow is melted and everything was looking just like yesterday: snow in the same places are, the same shape and size. The sun peeped out, and getting warmer. Assailed by clouds – cold.
In the afternoon we came to the guests – two young hunter from Kienthal. Made with our exchange: we have them – slings, they are us – svezhepodstrelennogo hare. Then they left and we have prepared the meat.
By nightfall had cleared, and we can see how the moon appeared. Zhzhem big fire: on the occasion of frost and full moon.
25. Snow followed up Derbent
On the seventeenth of April, under a drizzling rain for the first time built a home in the temple. Rain subsided, very kindly gave us five of us finally sit down at our hearth. Tomorrow, one of us goes to sbrosku, the other has to accompany him to Derbent, and then return to us by way of grabbing some of the products in the villages. Rain waited until we go to sleep, and only then loaded in earnest.
And the next morning he did not stop. He hinted that it would be nice not to go anywhere to anyone. But no, told him he should. I turned the tent (it is exchanged for food and pay, in hindsight, mules).
Then a thick fog descended, calling into further question we have scheduled event. But take a ticket on the plane, there are other commitments. Finally, we say goodbye. While there are – the same opinion as the rain and fog. We see off the guys near the trail.
We are staying three of the hearth. Business master, said the rain and turned into snow. Even frost priudaril. It transpired later that the snow was not only here – he accompanied our guys up to the Derbent, did not leave them for a moment, in spite of the difficulties that he had to overcome (in fact it was April 18).
26. Judging by the stars – spring
On the morning of the nineteenth everywhere in the meadow lying snowbanks, and the sky was falling shallow snow. We were keeping warm by the fire and did not suspect that the snow would not be a rare visitor in the future, until mid-May. Day suddenly brightened a little and drifts on the slopes began to melt. Night sky completely clear, and many stars. When the sun rose, the moon is a really shone in the blue sky. The snow melts slowly, but surely. And the afternoon snowfields as much as it was initially. Awfully blue sky, so that hurts the unaccustomed eye. Wood managed to dry. Evening zhzhem a big fire in the temple. Orion once gathered too early to come: judging by the stars – spring. But we continue to rage in the meadow twelve months.
27. Icicles
April 21. Cloudy, but quite warm. A little drizzle at times. Went to see our old center under the rock. It is located in saychike on the river just upstream. Sai is passed along the bottom – the water is low.
It’s very cozy. Although the river is close and the noise is stronger, feels great enclosure. It is clear that after us here no one came, and everything here, as it was: the hearth, firewood left, down a beautiful, was found by one of us and not burned for its beauty. Now top rock hung giant icicles. Some of them fell. A couple – right before our eyes. Occurs green onions, still young. There are breaking it so.
28. The slope on which someone is
April 22 visited our old place: clearing the remnants of houses, once and someone unfinished; studied “room” among the boulders, which is a narrow passage and a half meters long. Posobirat firewood on the slopes. From the camp is far away, but a lot of wood here and they are exemplary.
In the evening went to the western hill to the upper meadows (hence we went down, when they came). They discovered thickets of wild garlic. Ramsons also have, but we like garlic. Posobirat largest leaves. Very beautiful juniper grow here. From one flew vspugannaya us a couple of partridge. Maybe spring still comes to the mountains.
We returned to camp. Cloudy. We sit at our hearth. Often we look back on the western slope, which should go down a man we are waiting for five nights – the fourth member of our journey. But there – no one. And then all the time, that stood in the meadow (up to the left) we were accompanied by a feeling that to us should someone come. And, invariably in such cases, looking at the western slope. Another way is when the door was not closed, and he did not know why, all the time turned to her: there was anything new.
29. “Other” space. Thunderstorm
April 23 in the morning we were awakened by the singing of some noisy birds. A long time it was filled with a real nightingale. What sweet singing bird, it is not clear: it turned cloudy and windy, and soon zamorosil rain.
Went to explore the canyon – the left when viewed from the meadow to the side of the pass. A little deeper into it. In the canyon still lying snowfields. Severely and very beautiful. Just another space. I would like here, but judging by the weather – too early yet. They reached the Darts. He is low (in the growth here is not) and a small, three – four people. Climb it should be on all fours through a narrow passage of a length of about two meters. Once we have posted here a stone wall, so that the mainsail completely fenced off from the “streets”. This warm and cozy, almost dripping. Porcupine left a pair of small spinules. It is evident that the animals do not live here: a large cave and open to the majority of animals. Sat, smoking his pipe.
Above is not gone – and so obvious that the snow too much. The water in the canyon is clear, flowing and in pools. And in our river water is now red. Birds any chirped: either on their own business, not that we disturbed them. Zamorosil rain, and we returned to camp.
The rain had stopped. And then, finally, we sit at the hearth of our foursome. It’s getting dark too long. I have already had their supper, and ate, and went for firewood. Night came, and with it came the storm. Came close – in 1 – 3 kilometers away from us. And then the fog came down very heavy. It can be seen using a flashlight. During a rain spread a tarpaulin on the roof (it was hidden away our three and a half years ago). Its just enough so that we can close to each other to sit under the awning.
30. Hunting
April 24, morning. Fog then envelops us, then retreated to the mountains higher up. When went to collect firewood, hare met. Hare was close and ran not quick. It could be for him to hunt, but nothing yet.
Then make a bow and arrows. Tips – from scissors. We put a target. All shooting, train. Then he went on trial for an hour to hunt: no one caught (tracker one hare, but far).
31. Zodiac
April 25 was cleared up. At dusk, watching all sorts of colors in the sky, the clouds and snowy mountains. And at night – so dense starry sky, we decided to explore the map, where some constellations. Jupiter, a huge and bright, now in Cancer. From that night began to follow him and the moon, as they move in the zodiacal belt. Bootes and Coma Berenices clearly visible. Any constellation can easily be detected. But the Milky Way has not yet released – here he seems almost an hour.
32. Place to camp
April 26. In the morning – a bright blue sky without a single cloud. Moon is visible, is a small (24 lunar day). Warm. Garlic grows very quickly. On the western hill of wild garlic grew huge bushes and became much tastier. Gotten uldzhan. Edible only the lower part of the stem. When cut white milk advocates. Bitter, not very much we like.
Went to the “right” canyon – to look after the place for the new camp. Immediately after the descent, just above the canyon is very cozy place near the wall: a huge archami, with high overhanging slab-roof intact the vast quantities of excellent firewood. Within 5 minutes walk to the water flowing, crystal clear, in the sunlight – blue. On the slope uldzhan grows, someone places pogryzenny (rabbits, can). Generally, at this slope – a dense juniper forest. Even fruit trees grow. Admire and continued on.
And more snow is often found. At the bottom of the river is flowing, then disappears. Trays with the same blue water, small waterfalls. In the walls of the canyon on both sides a lot of niches, small Darts – bottom to align. Where there is no snow under the feet of maple leaves sometimes come across. And we saw ourselves maples, only when they reached a fork in that there was not soon enough. A whole grove on a large flat meadow, and another – on the rise in the circus in the left otvilke.
In the right otvilku we decided not to go. Viewed in the entrance, similar to the arch (top left and right, perpendicular to the walls of the canyon, hang tabs – it seems that recently they merged, forming an arch). Here – a narrow part of the canyon. At the bottom of the water flows. Somehow it seemed gloomy.
Even in the canyon echoes lives, particularly hollow just below, Come out from the top. On the way back, passing through this place, met the owl, close altogether.
33. Hunters
We returned to camp. Had lunch only, and hunters have come to us. Not to us, of course, for the night. Lit a fire on a hillside near the paths straight than us very surprised. These two, and this time with the donkey. Their production – six rabbits. Two, they immediately prepared – on hot coals. We were treated. Tasty. When cooking, they use green juniper, which gives the meat tart, pleasant flavor and aroma. They gave us a bottle katyk, nuts and cakes a little. He and a partridge in a cage – an enticement for other partridge. Night went to visit them. When put down, guys have to focus more screaming and having fun – playing the fool.
Early in the morning they again went hunting in the higher mountains. Returned with prey. We are trying to negotiate with them on the exchange of something of our belongings for food. I can not. They left us a hare, one of the prey, and left. Prepared by the same method on the coals. For this special focus was erected – “tomb for the hare: an elongated, on the one hand a high stone, he burns a fire, on the other – the coals, which are placed pieces of meat. Green Archie put it. Tasty and hearty happened.
On the morning of April 28 and only had a cup of tea, but the hill is again two hunters descend. Snack on the meadow, hid things in the stones under our care and went. Left us with 1,5 liter katyk. The day was hot. We wish now to move to another place, but somehow uneasy to drop off when you’re away Uzbeks. So sit.
Went to collect firewood nearby. To go far for some reason do not want to – not that due to the approaching new moon, not that due to the presence of people, maybe even why. Evening, and all of our ohotnichkov no. Even once zaperezhivali – where are they. So go, logs from a drag for the fire. I have four. Accommodated in the meadow. At the same time we lit a bonfire, relax. They are much quieter than sitting than yesterday’s hunters.
Soon dark. I wanted to eat. Send a cake to ask. Dali. And then brought to 500 grams of butter, not too greasy, but fresh, tasty and not peresolennogo. Was found that rabbits are a bit naohotili apparently scared away all of yesterday. But nastrelyal partridges. And we all can not understand what it is they do hunt, if they are around herds graze.
On the morning of April 29 hunters went out hunting, and we had breakfast pancake with butter and set off to explore in the “left” canyon to canopies. It is a bit more grotto. The last time there was snow. Now there is no snow anywhere, not counting individual snowfields. Water in the canyon a little more. Many maples, uldzhan growing. The owl moans. Return. On the way back we catch firewood. They recently from under the snow, but drying. Tasty smell, like most namytyh of juniper wood.
Returning to camp, found that hunters have already left, the two cakes we left. Quickly svecherelo. All I had time to admire the fanciful forms of cirrus clouds, which sometimes gleam rainbow.
34. Fog, snow and hail. Green leaves. Bear and Bear
On the morning of April 30 at the meadow came a thick fog. In the next archey, nothing is visible. Then the sun came out from the fog with a blue sky and disappeared again. Things change very quickly. Went for firewood. Fog on the way back with us went to the meadow. It is now clear – it clouds wander off somewhere from the bottom up.
Today, as usual, went for the garlic. Ramsons already begun to turn yellow, and garlic on the slopes zhuhnet, and because the heat was quite long. Fruit trees today green leaves povypuskali.
Gradually dark. Sitting around the campfire. From his reflections on the mist can be clearly seen by our shadow, and in the beam fog lamps looks like a fine dust from the water. Everyone was waiting for that colder and the fog will slide down. And indeed, in some point in the Big Dipper seemed, but then again everything was clouded.
May 1. Even when asleep, heard about zamorosilo Canopy tents. Crawled – was warm, but in some places snow lies. And small snow falls out of the fog, which so and has not gone anywhere. Drank tea. Snow began to hail, and then this thick snow. So even snowdrifts piled slightly.
Afternoon – the new moon.
Then the mist rose, and above us hung thick clouds. Snow is coming, no, melted a little, but lying under the trees.
In the evening heard a strange cry. Thought maybe a bear. Take steps to scare. There were stars and cold. And still later the mist and snow came again.
By the morning of May 2 the snow never melted. It’s cold, but above zero. Below stubbornly creeping fog. Now they have some gray. Secretly started snowing.
35. Nonhuman space. Polyana in bowls
Went to the “right” to the point of the canyon, which have chosen to camp last time. When going down, saw: the maple leaves are produced, small, but for some reason the yellow-red. Uldzhan grown. And the snow is still closer. And anyway, it does not snow, and hail, which are often very funny and gallops. Among gradinok caught crystalline snowflakes. But under the canopy among archey, ancient, giant hail hardly felt. We made a hearth made of three stones, a fire, and it became quite warm and cozy. Sitting, getting used to. The site would have to align. The canyon in this part – a deep, drawings on the opposite wall – monstricheskie. Next to the fireplace – the stone monster guardian 10 meter growth. Still, for four grim place. Day two, three – nothing, but then what?
We are just a little “fallthrough. We recall that they took with them a cake, roast it on a stick. They ate, chatted a bit. We discussed that the place – almost Kugitang, wild, seriously. But for a man not entirely comfortable. And in the warm circle of friends around the hearth not rassyadeshsya. Nonhuman some space. And in this canyon, and another lot of cozy villages enticing, but not for the people: for the dwarfs and other mythical creatures.
But there is in these mountains, meadows in bowls – such as ours, where we ourselves have created a special space. And maybe before it too was set up – very suitable place for this. And yet – in the circus, where we very much want to go, but for various reasons, can not yet.
We returned to camp. There – quite heavy snow and hail. Tarpaulin roof pulled, click to each other. Night came quickly. And the night had cleared, and frost: no hurry to go to sleep. Meals prepared. In passing, it became clear that wild garlic arrows released: whether in spite of the cold, or whether we had not noticed.
Hours we do not have, and using the clear starry sky and a map, determine how much time is. Milky Way has already gone out, going to Cassiopeia, Ursa Major unfolded handle down. Suddenly it turned 3 in the morning. Bollidy and fly. Sitting, watching, eyes could not take. This is the Milky Way at the zenith and the sky brightened by sunrise.
36. Lopata. Beautiful wood. Cassiopeia
And the next day, May 3, to replace the beautiful blue sky came snow (sometimes mushrooms), creep up a little bit of fog. When the snow has not been, shortly before the sun went to see Sai, derived from the “left” of the canyon. Few have risen – and seen as the sun goes down. Sai is very nice, along its Berezhkov pleasant glades with rare archami and fruit trees. Judging by the device saya, gnomes are here to live whole settlements. Night, as he was commanded, the stars and cold.
May 4 in the morning – the sun, clear blue sky, warm. The snow is almost melted. Then came running the menacing clouds. Once again I visited the place where things drop off 3,5 years ago. Maybe shovel still there, it would be very useful to us. Many areas in canyons convenient for parking, if you align the bottom. But no, not found. Soon the wind rose.
In the evening went to collect firewood along the banks of our river downstream. We went down to a river. The water in the tub rages, tiled floor, a little soaked. Beautiful wood, dry, tried to take it. They rose, and in the drawings, and silver with yellow and blue pattern, bizarre forms – so take them easy. We climbed to a clearing above the river. From different perspectives on the admire a waterfall dropping from the opposite wall, rather powerful now. They sat on large rocks. Hence – view of the harsh mountains of the west. They are all in gray clouds. The sun is setting and the sky lit up in different colors: gold with purple clouds, pink and green sunset, and where there are no clouds – from deep blue to sky-blue to turquoise. The rays of the sun today is not producing as yesterday. Wait a little longer – and the moon appeared, young and horny.
We returned to camp. Dusk. Over the hills through the trees can be seen glowing rim of the full moon with the darkness inside. Sitting around the campfire. The stars poured out, and cold. Cassiopeia out. As it is now often framed night.
37. Dead porcupine
May 5 in the morning with hail and snow. So our garlic quite pomerznet. Snow does not bear immediately melts. Fog comes close, but not down.
We decided not to wait for favors from nature and a wash today. To do this, we went to the hearth under a rock. Built a special center to be able to stand under the canopy back to the cliff. A large focus has turned. The water was heated, wash yourself. At this time, very thick hail went on stage with the snow. The sun peeps through them, all beautifully shiny. And under a rock – even a very warm and dry. Then he cleared up, and all juniper flashing multicolored droplets.
In the river found the body near a porcupine. He has powerful legs, like a rather large dog, and he is rather big. But some believe porcupine mythical animals. Very few people have ever seen a porcupine, then a porcupine needles occur frequently and in different places, especially in small caves.
By dusk the owls zauhali. Moon bright, visible to her dark side. At night the stars and a little frost.
38. An unidentified object. Highest moon
Morning of May 6. Not a single cloud in the blue sky. The sun is hot. From the mountains shot rang out. So, while we were sleeping, one of the hunters walked past us.
We prepare “goods” on the exchange. Today we should go to the village for groceries. All ends and the money from us – the bus to Tashkent and a few rubles on the Moscow transport.
Sun high, but the moon is visible. Today it is – the highest, what happens. Last month, it was the same when we Kyzylnaure with the Uzbek youth walking: with songs, dances and fights.
Drank tea with cakes and the last goodbye: a way to Kienthal not close to nightfall in time, it was time to leave.
Sami went for firewood. Two birds met – crept into the sunshine. Now they do not want to have some reason.
In the evening we went to the hunter. Upon learning that we have no bread, cakes and treated cheese balls.
Night stars. Moon grew up and some lights. Observed in the sky unidentified object with an unusual alarm fire. He still hung low over the northern hills and strangely flickered – surprised at first that it is for such a star. And then suddenly disappeared behind the horizon, why we were surprised again, realizing that this is not a star.
39. Moon connects with Jupiter. Mice
Now we have three. During the day we were sitting under archoy – our “tree of peace”. Several hours of waiting until the peas cook. On the river watching. On the western hill looking back. There – no one. Drawing on tambourines. For wood, of course, walk. At night we sit at our hearth. Again, pull up the hill to see, but understand that with such a light (the moon a little less than half) of a man on the hill will not be seen. The night was clear, and the stars also drawn to watch. Moon in Leo, and, apparently, will go down today in connection with Jupiter, after six hours, according to our rough estimate.
Owl razuhalis. The mouse came – by habit went to the kitchen. Something rustled there, it is unclear what – the kitchen has long empty. The night is warm, and we often sit in the moonlight.
40. Day and the parade. Groth
It is early morning of May 9 is often awakened from different rustles around the tent. Not immediately realized that this – the wind. And when they rose, it turned out that the wind is very strong – in the temple of one pole from the wall was blown.
We sit, drink tea. Discuss if and wait for our friend in the morning, then at any moment. Indeed, in a cup of tea did not have time to cool down – goes.
Almost none of the things we have chosen to exchange failed, but two trunk. Products made both, in different places, everything in general, on the list.
They sat down dastarkhan under the “tree of peace” – that the sun does not beat on the head and poles in the wind for us not to fall – a little note and Victory Day, and our reunion. Wind unabated: caught up in the clouds of the sky, gathered them in dance. On top of a little steam.
Towards dusk decided to go sit in a small grotto in the “left” canyon with a small puja. Climbed, candle lit, dastarkhan spread out. Sitting. I wanted to wait for darkness to “door” in the grotto was closed. On the street the fire kindled: tea and fun. With darkness came the rain and thunderstorm. Sometimes it got out to get warm by the fire, and his support for diversity. A cloud is a star is visible, then the moonlight breaks.
Already in the middle of the night, when the rain did little pereryvchik decided to return to the camp. By the way – very thick fog, even in light of the lantern trail hard to see. Loaded the rain. Lightning flashed and thunder roared. Even down to our clearing, we were greeted by a gigantic flash of lightning in less than 300 meters away from us and the deafening thunder of local spirits. Nothing to do but hide in the tent: with the canvas roof in the morning we took off to avoid being blown by the wind.
Rain tapping on the awning tent, and then began to rustle. It was snow. The snow was almost all night without stopping. It can be seen in our mountains today, a big celebration with a parade and a triumphal procession of all the forces of the snake heaven. And we also celebrated, even in the morning, all day.
41. Circus. Tulips
Most questions have been raised, whether to go to the circus. We climbed the hill to assess what the weather there. Evidently, the snow is, but how much – is unclear. Just before our eyes there crept a cloud. Above the ridge – Broken clouds. Severely. Severity of us are already long enough, but the people and warming food – not very.
Went to collect firewood in the sai, which runs into the “left” canyon. Along the way the tulips come across, the first this year. In CAE flowing stream, not drying up even in summer, with a branching channel, waterfalls and other delights. It can be seen as places of water knocked out from under the ground. Out of curiosity, went to inspect one of the tributaries of the saya. He gag small, but quite deep (okolo10 meters) grotto. There are a lot of drops and breathes moisture. And so could be and the camp was a small group.
42. Canopy over the fire
May 11 set a canopy over the center of the street: the case of rain. After the fall of the poles in the church do not want to restore the roof. And the moon is big, and without a roof in good weather is more pleasant. The center of the “tomb” was converted into a regular round. The result was a seven stones.
At dusk we sit in the temple. The clouds above us are running in different directions: the upper layers – up in the mountains, and the lower – down. Sometimes the sky cleared, and there is the moon. Scattered rain pokapal, and then went to grad, not very strong.
On the morning of 12 th overcast. A little something falls from the sky, rare and small. Blue skies and warm us not spoil, even though weather is pleasant. Zamorosilo stronger, and we took refuge under an awning. Sometimes it was a hailstorm of large balls, but enough light to ride. Cold steel.
By evening the draft ended and we moved to the temple. Zhzhem big fire. A little snack, and the rain again zamorosil. We went under the shed and from there observed the changes in natural phenomena. Finally, the clouds pospolzali and discovered the moon, big and very bright. Owl’s almost silent. Their voices could be heard close by.
43. Hares and partridges
May 13 in the morning heat, the sun Burns, but sometimes it is incident cloud, blowing wind and become chilly. Going to rain all day, but never went.
Products coming to an end, save them now. Pialushke ate rice and split: those who – for firewood, and who – quail hunt, we will chuck heard near the camp. Partridge did not fall, but managed to meet four young rabbits. They played together like kittens. Close to let a, not afraid for some reason. Hunt them, we did not: and sorry, and they are still small.
Experimented with flour: as without butter and sugar to get out of it something to eat. We tried pancakes. In principle, edible, but not inspiring.
44. News
May 14. From the mountains heard peals of thunder, lightning flashed over the ridge. Storm went around us, but the rain still came. Hid under the shed, began home-made noodles to cook. Also edible, but does not want to repeat.
The rain had stopped, and everything went back – for firewood, and hunting. It’s getting dark already, all gathered in the camp, and “hunter” is not. Suddenly, on the western slope, very close, the hare runs. A few minutes later and he “hunter” appears at the top of that hill. It turns out that he had scared rabbit. And more than any living creatures, especially quail, no.
When put them to bed, already in the tent, suddenly discovered that we have tickets for May 21, not 20, as for some reason we thought. Excess denechek appeared, so this news.
45. Cake to the full moon. Silence, tulips and beautiful snag
May 15. On the morning then the sun beats down, the clouds nabegut, and immediately cold. Drank tea and hunting – for partridges. At this time, the latter figure being prepared – for polpialy per person. Is everything ready, and the man with the hunting will not be returned. This appears on the western slope, without the production again. Ate breakfast, and wanted to eat more. After breakfast one again on the hunt had gone, the other – for firewood, while the remaining fruit washed in our garden.
Hunting again proved fruitless. No partridges. Although they can hear cackling, to reach the birds themselves are not obtained. So they decided to continue the experiment with the flour – this time to bake a cake. They made a steep making dough, roll cake in the center laid, covered with ash, from the top – coal. Zhzhem fire.
After some time, pulled out a cake for a visit. It is in the middle of the swollen from all sides – crunchy crust. Cut – within a few not propeklos. Back it buried, and that has brought us …
While tortilla dopekaetsya, send for firewood. There, alongside the “right” of the canyon – the silence, water for some reason can not hear as before. A lot of tulips growing. Awful pulls down into the canyon – there breathes “other.” Even a little walk through the slope, but I was distracted snag a beautiful, intricately twisted. I can not resist taking a snag in the camp and back.
There is already ready. Cake dragged. She was burned badly in the process dopekaniya. Broth ramson cake to cook. Ate cake and rejoiced: finally turned out not only edible, but tasty product. Ret another cake made. At this time, poke holes in it that it is not so much swell and better propeklas. Already Twilight came. We decided to pull out the cake, when will the moon – to detect a time we can not. How times and the clouds dispersed. Sitting, zhzhem fire. That and the moon appeared, but the trees yet. We waited and took a cake. And then he ate without broth. It is less swollen, not scorched, turned out quite tasty.
Moon, meanwhile quite brightly lighted. Today – the first full moon night. At night sometimes is incident strange clouds, as if a cloud exploded. Jupiter came early, the moon from it now lags far behind. Tambourines beaten offerings got – timed to coincide with full moon.
46. Fungi. Blue sky and the wind
On the morning of May 16 under a archey found a group of fungi. At the oyster alike. It would be a little more – a soup of them would be cooked, and bake until the cakes. Here and flour are very few – in one cake. In the evening after all cooked mushroom soup, lots of greenery added to it. To exit the moon the sky was quite clear, and the soup was ready. Very tasty soup.
Sitting around the campfire. Moon very low-hanging, bright, but because of the long shadows everything in its light looks scary. Often buggy human voices. When the moon is closer to the south, the sky was blue, owls zauhali, the wind blew – beat tambourines. A very restless today. And in a tent for a long time they moved, they could not sleep.
47. Horses on the slope. The threat of thunderstorms. Foci
Woke up, despite a restless night, not late. We drink tea, and suddenly see – on the western slope of the meadow to our herd of horses coming down. They probably sixteen. Among them – three foals. Why are they such a steep slope climbed, so even without a shepherd? We decided that it is – a good sign, beautiful.
We collect the camp. Today will go down. The last cake baked and eaten – the most delicious turned. When almost all were gathered, went quite heavy rain. Had to hide under the canopy – the little that has not yet been removed. During the rain under archoy mushrooms found the same oyster mushrooms, about a kilogram, which were very happy: if you do not get to the villages, what forces will be reinforced.
The rain soon began to mushroom, and thunder rumbled. It would not come to us or the path is not found. Rain subsided, and we decided, despite the approaching thunder, go down.
Judging by the sun, it was about five o’clock, when we came to say goodbye to the source. Goodbye, went out.
Come not quick: something to admire the mushroom, then the arrow ramson’ll crack, then all sorts of attractions inspections. Rain just moistened slopes, so that they do not sypyatsya and do not slip, as in dry or very wet weather.
Vegetation on the road varies. We went down to Urmanche. Here poppies are often caught, uldzhan grew very large. All the meadows overgrown with high grass. The water in the river is no longer red.
In the early dusk approached our fire, which stood before the drop off. He is one of eight stone – just shows that our. We sat a bit, decided to walk to the next, where we were arrested.
We got up camp here. This focus – also of 8 stones. Firewood remains a bit, though, quite wet. Next, as in that time, the horses graze. When they walked past, the leader made aggressive towards us. Just in case bypassed by streams. And then, to pass the horses do not walk to get water down to a river. Drank tea, cooked mushrooms. For a long time to boil, and without the greenery. Tasty and satisfying.
The sky is very clear. Moon appeared – a bright, with otedennym sideways and very green.
48. The son of a forester. Hallucinations. Kommersant
Woke up early. The sun has not illuminated the camp, all the grass in dew. And when the sun came out, it was hot. Drank tea, the camp gathered and went out. Go with a few halts, without tea and smoke.
Approaching Kienthal, met an acquaintance Uzbek. He invited us to visit, we agreed. This is the same house where we spent the night last time. On the way to the house several times to wade the river crossing, a place – on the knee. Heavily soaked. Dry your boots for the day and failed. Visiting us very tasty meal, how to order: katyk with lots of sugar, a slice of fresh mutton, scones with sweet tea. Sweet terribly anxious, and we leaned. We have a rest, but we are no one worried.
Evening. Get together and go out further in Kyzylnaur. Shlos very long, straight obsession for some. And in general, the way we all “hallucinations” accompanied. Somewhere in the middle between Kienthal Kyzylnaurom and out of the bushes came a boy, and we began to sell vodka, and after the boy came from the same old woman and two very young girls 13-16 years old. Apparently, contrary to representations of women in villages can lead a fairly free life. In general, it is not clear it all. We agreed with them – agreed, and everyone does. Very expensive, they evaluate their wares. Along the way collect a young and terribly fragrant wormwood, which was overgrown with the entire slope. She directs us to the house owner’s Dokan (Shop). Saw us off to the home of his son, already in darkness.
Comes. We remain persuaded to stay the night. The owner and the owner of Jafar still VAZika. Midnight agree that drove us to Derbent. And sleeping offered, and saw – but without the money he did not want to carry. Pyla still took in exchange for two bottles of vodka, which we just drank and why communication was easy and effortless. So much so, that has persuaded us to play our instruments – a Jew’s harp and tambourine. We have not refused. Then he lay down to sleep.
In the morning – again, the heat, although there are few clouds and the wind strong. Tea why we do not have. Mistress is in the house there, and daughters are busy with some work in the yard. We are going, then go.
49. People are different. Green. Funeral rites. Weaver.
On the way we go in the house where lived a week: with the owner to say goodbye. We change some of the things on homemade wife of the owner, they are really very beautiful. Sell woolen socks for 1300 SUM – our first money received in the exchange process. We still bought. Socks are not doing, sewing inappropriate.
They talked briefly about their concerns: that the car want to take that house Jafar happened. People are different – a brief remark about this boss, and assured us that Macha will be the machine in Derbent. There’s funeral today of a woman who attracts people from everywhere, then go back. Sitting on the veranda. Here is cool and very pleasant. The three-year master’s daughter danced to us finally. I sincerely say goodbye, and leave in Machala.
Come in the heat. On the road caught nomad shepherds. Yesterday we saw one, nedohodya Kyzylnaura – very beautiful yurts with dome roofs. And here – rectangular structures made of bent twigs, covered with felt or fabric. Outside boil katyk.
Everything is terribly bright green, different shades. Particularly striking some crops for the fences, perhaps wheat. Suddenly, quickly enter the Macha. This village is different from previous ones. Long ribbon, 7 km, it stretches along the river and roads. First there are vast stretches of fences, with houses in the far part. The windows are glazed – before that we saw everywhere polyethylene windows. Many houses carved pillars and other carved items. This – Upper Macha.
Then begin house-fortress and months on the roofs of high heels on the gate. All buried in lush greenery: with polished poplar leaves, blue sea buckthorn herb with bright yellow flowers. Before us – quite fantastic picture: paradise, no man around, only the children occasionally look out of houses. Streets are empty. Country abundance and silence. In fact, just all at the funeral.
Finally, the old woman goes to meet, at once explains where to go. We approach the house, where the ritual. We arise in the shade. We were soon invited into the inner courtyard, where all the guests sit at dastarkhan. The owner puts us in a separate dastarkhan, all other seats are occupied. Sam is next.
Everything in their own backyard: one – at the entrance with a jug of water, wash hands incoming and outgoing, the other is covered with cloth and carry the cakes. Another is to bring pilaf. Pilaf we also brought, even with the addition, so we just do not overate. The owner told me that for the holiday pilaf cooked 100 kg, and is that 300 is prepared. In the morning came a woman now – only men. Again have come in the hands of scarves and have a loud wailing, crying and wiping tears handkerchiefs. When all are seated, one of the elders sing a prayer, then all they eat. During the meal, elders sometimes again delaying prayer. Soon all gone, there are others in the doorway, and everything is repeated in the same sequence.
Came some people, and the owner went to negotiate with them about the car for us. He said that everything was fine and promised to take us to Derbent. Terms are unknown, we must find out. Come. Suddenly a storm began, it began to rain. The car had gone off, but promised to return soon.
Outwaits rain under an awning across the street. In celebration of dastarkhan also shed organized. We are hiding with donkey. Here, at the entrance to the house, their stalls and feeding troughs. The owners are at home with us. As we are waiting for the car. Long time no one was going, and we are invited into the house: tea, katyk in large quantities. We are always on lookout “: afraid to miss the car. The hostess, meanwhile proudly shows carpets of their work, which hung on the walls in the rooms. All the women seem to weavers. And make their “firm” patterns. We sincerely admire, want to see the machine. But time is running out, maybe – the next time.
Here, finally, came a kind of machine, then – yet. Come to agree – again, sharing things, money, something we do not have a car. Then began something not very clear: one a drunk driver, but ready to go, if things are like. He said so, and disappeared. And another said that he was “under the command, and let it solves. But the authorities at first said that the Russian is not lucky, and then went himself. It turned out to be a mountain police officers from the department to combat terrorism, our friends. So, they came out and they say: nothing from you, we do not need no pay, sit down, and drove off. Rain by that time was over. We quickly loaded into VAZik – all we are 9 people, the girls sit on his lap – and left.
50. Police accompanied to Derbent. Shepherds. “Other” meaning
We go through Macha. After all, what he long. We stopped at the store. One policeman of vodka and took up a snack – cookies, waffles and candy. After Machaya again stopped, drank to the Soviet Union. All local very nostalgic for those days.
We went down the mountain road across the plateau Sarymas. We talk about the Tajik traditions: the police – Tajiks. By the way – a very small village stands. Surprised. Archa soon disappeared. Stopped at a rest camp of shepherds, a Tajik family. We treat katyk, scones, tea. Another vodka drink – with the owner. It blows a strong wind. Children to spy on us from the house – the same bent rods, covered with fabric. There is a separate kitchen, a clay hearth in the street. Along the slopes of goats and sheep running around. Many very small, but the legs are great. A strange place, very open, the wind blows just so. But shepherds all summer to live here.
Then went merrily, with the songs. Nightfall comes to Derbent post.
We are invited to visit Baysun, but we run the risk of being late for the plane and refuse. Suddenly a rock for us at the colonel of militia with the strange question: what you belief. Persistently explains that unbelievers in these mountains, he is no longer empty. Recommends to the next arrival to deal with this issue.
We sat down in the Tashkent bus. Their are several to choose from. The bus stood before the fact of sharing the past 20 dollars for the disadvantageous exchange rate. What can you do here for free is not going to take.
Soon begins to get dark. Jupiter is visible in the window. Young military-contractors treat us pistachios, are strange conversations. Everything now seems a bit strange having a “different” meaning. We stopped at the tea house. We are trying to save money, but refuse to Uzbek wine itself can not. Go further.
By three o’clock in the morning landed at the fork in Samarkand. We took a taxi, and soon – we are in Artuch. In our usual room sleeping Tashkent climbers, in the morning they leave, and we will go to there – so the guard insists. While in the neighboring room. A little wine with cakes, cigarettes – tobacco is over. Tired, very sleepy.
51. Money. Mountaineer from Samarkand
Our neighbors have woken up a little daylight. We leave with “Tikoy” (LED flashlight) to extract money. We go in the room, and there all with the same lights are sitting, and none of the equipment they also do not need. So they decided to sleep a little.
Woke up at 10 am. Hot and stuffy. Washes, drinking tea and immediately go to the receptionist Larissa – begun commercial operations to date. I sell only a tarpaulin for 4 thousand sum, two and a half times less than the present price. And while all. It turns out that in Samarkand is a very good second-hand, cheap. People from other cities with pleasure purchased here.
Able to call the director Artuch “Boris. He is ready to buy “Chiku” and one zhumar over 20 thousand sum, promises to drive up the day. We have so far recruited 24 thousand sum, the car really take a 25 – to-chaise all the options we do not err, but still want to eat. Boris’s all there. Our patience is bursting already – the appointed date, it will not come. Finally, it was his wife. Everything has promised, and, besides – something more on the little things: wool socks and tea. Money is now enough for a car, and on food. We leave to agree with “NEKSO” – successfully.
Since our first visit to “Artuch” everything has changed a lot – a garden is very green, mulberry tree in the whole berries. All day they eat of: a delicious, fleshy, to look like caterpillars, sweet – we have not ate sweet. The day was hot, we sit in the shade of trees for dastarkhan. To us hooked Gena – experienced climber, samarkandets, now part-time driver. Complains that all the mountains are closed to Samarkand, to work in Tajikistan. He earlier in the caves Kugitang visited, and many more where. Longs for those days.
52. Celestial phenomena. Incomprehensible panic. Latest Money
Nearly six in the evening we sit in the car and leave Samarkand. On the way all sorts of celestial phenomena and try to hit us: a piece of the rainbow, the sky around the setting sun at first quite golden, then orange and finally red with violet. We rode through the valley – the sun has set on the horizon, lay on the ground a huge fireball, and it was unclear what a miracle is and whence comes.
At the beginning of the tenth were in Tashkent. Ate ice cream and went to register. The cabin is completely filled with people – like the previous flight was canceled. During the flight some reigns, and panic among staff and passengers. Very tired.
Domodedovo arrived at four in the morning. At last rubles bought tobacco. The driver of a public bus to the subway does not want to take us for free, despite the presence of air tickets. But we persuaded him. About Metro had to wait a bit to open it – smoked a pipe while.
00. Return
Returning from the trip – a special magic task. External flows pick up and set their own laws of perception, “past” events. No memory, no volitional effort does not help. There is cutting a certain way, resulting in often alter the experience lived through. Magic more such events do not appear. Many simply obliterate from memory. Experience is not going away, but simply becomes hidden “behind seven seals.” Where a man may enter, the world immediately envelops the mist, so it shows only the closest.
The strength of the world clearly superior force of the individual, and carelessness so inappropriate. The world around us has an active mind. Most people interested in something simply because it is this activity. The difference is not that someone or something to absorb the consciousness and the vitality of man, and someone – no, she is, where is able to extend consciousness, where it is allowed to penetrate during intercourse.
“Hidden” experience can be made available. Construct a bridge on which the traveler moves from one painting to another, should he. If he – not the one who sets the laws of interaction with the external flow, then it – someone else, since the interaction occurred. The same – in respect of any stream. This does not mean imposing surrounds own rules, and the fact that the traveler is aware of his right to allocate a certain principle as fundamental. Once the principle is selected, it should be followed.
Not every principle is universal. Find a universal approach is itself a complex task. If the approach is not found, the life – a turn of events involving random, and not being aware of its endless stretches of integrity. The desire for personal enrichment, even spiritual, does not provide a stable position. The body can not accommodate an infinite amount of force, and its accumulation – only an intermediate point. Non-striving for personal achievement – a hint in this search. In the universe there is harmonious point where the sufficiency of all – only one of the signs. Any achievements, including the spirit, are the “side effects” in the performance of specific magical goals.
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Nov 21 2009